Although critical excitement and high scores focus on single-vineyard Furmints, all wineries live off blended estate wines. Nowhere is a “Birtok” Furmint as solid and exciting as at Füleky, an impeccably run estate in Bodrogkeresztúr with enviable track record. This is simply a lovely rendition of this quirky Hungarian grape, concentrated and finely detailed, bursting with ripe orchard fruits framed by razor-sharp acidity and spice. With almost no oak in sight, this is delicious to drink now in its youth, though Füleky also sell a lovely 2014 to illustrate the ageing potential.
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