Many amateur cooks aren’t sure what bay leaves are really good for. Roman Artner, Head Chef at Pichlmaiers Zum Herkner, explains how to use them to add subtle depth and layered flavor to a dish.
Back in the day, not a single soup or goulash was served without a bay leaf. Today, we often ask ourselves: Do we even still need them? For Roman Artner, head chef at Pichlmaiers Zum Herkner, bay leaves remain fundamental—just like salt and pepper. "A dried bay leaf provides the dish with a slightly earthy taste, whereas fresh leaves add a touch of bitterness," he explains in an interview with Falstaff. "But they are like salt and pepper—it’s hard to imagine sauces and ragouts without them."
How does it develop its flavor during cooking? Roman Artner has the answer: "It brings a subtle earthy note to the dish, without any additional vegetables. In sauces like a classic beurre blanc, leaves can even be blended in, creating a delicate, unique flavor. Difficult to describe, but clearly noticeable."
There is no “magic moment” when it's best to remove bay leaves before they turn bitter—and usually, there’s no need, as the leaves rarely become bitter during cooking. For Artner, quantity is key: "One or two leaves in three liters of liquid are enough to add flavor. Bitterness only develops if too many leaves are used or if they’re roasted for too long, causing the essential oils to evaporate. The leaves themselves are not eaten. Usually, they are removed after cooking—in exceptional cases like beurre blanc, they are separated by means of a sieve. Powdered or chopped leaves are not used; bay leaves primarily serves as carrier of subtle flavor."
Perhaps this is why bay leaves can be found in almost every cuisine. They’re particularly common where stews, braised dishes, and thick sauces are staples—in Italy, France, and German-speaking countries like Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. They’re also popular in many Asian cuisines.
"Bay leaves are simply part of everyday cooking almost everywhere. Even with side dishes, bay leaves are a must," says Artner.
When asked about unconventional flavor pairings with bay leaves, Artner admits they are rare. Drinks typically feature juniper berries, with bay leaves being used less frequently. But he sees potential for innovation: "I could imagine bay leaf ice cream turning out quite interesting. I’m even considering letting a few leaves steep in vanilla paste in the patisserie to see how the aroma develops."
The chef would like to see bay leaves make a comeback in beef soups. Today, these often rely solely on lovage, classic soup greens, and parsley. Artner stresses, however, that it’s well worth rediscovering bay leaves and experimenting with them in creative ways.
Artner’s advice for beginners is simple: Even ordinary dishes like rice or potatoes benefit from a single bay leaf, which can subtly transform the flavor. He suggests using bay leaves not just for ragouts or stews, but in any soup or sauce—a small addition that reveals its remarkable versatility in the kitchen.
