Brutal Bistros are in a category of their own in Helsinki. Falstaff investigates this ongoing trend.
Bistro culture started in Finland's three big cities of Helsinki, Turku and Tampere about 20 years ago. This set the stage for the advent of bistronomy, which combines popular and traditional dishes with high-level culinary techniques. A concept that is highly appealing in uncertain times, the timing could not be better: classic dishes and French cuisine have made a strong comeback, trading on culinary nostalgia, a sense of coziness, and comforting consistency. Furthermore, this best-of-both-worlds approach comes in different genres: French, husmanskost, Nordic home cooking, Granny Bistro, local food, Italian, Asian-influenced, as well as the experimental Neobistro and the rough-around-the-edges Brutal Bistro.
Bistronomy's influence in Helsinki is plain to see: Bistros are replacing other establishments in record numbers. As eateries grapple with weakening purchasing power and changing customer needs, bistro is like a magic word, promising a low threshold into high-quality gourmet cuisine made with fresh, seasonal ingredients.
To maximize their comforting appeal, most of these new restaurants are being designed as if they have always existed. The idea is to be a classic at birth, their simplicity matched by enthusiastic creativity. Warm, intimate, straightforward and personal, yet professional, service is central to their atmosphere.
Taking this phenomenon to the extreme are Helsinki's so-called Brutal Bistros, where the furnishings, cutlery, lighting, etc. are all recycled, with the restaurateurs doing the remodeling themselves. They make an uncomplicated, do-it-yourself vibe a virtue – an aesthetic in its own right. In Helsinki, this style is represented by standouts like BasBas, Luovuus kukkii kaaoksesta, Spis, and the original and experimental Peloton Cyckling Eatery and Gastro Cafe Kallio. Maukku is one of the newest arrivals and has already proven itself.
Maukku is a play on names: Maud Saddok, a kitchen manager who worked in Parisian bistros for six years, is known by her Finnish nickname Maukka. Marc-Antoine Marcoux, a French-Canadian sommelier, is Markku. Saddok's Parisian bistronomique style is the soul of the restaurant: her creations are elegant, the ingredients are seasonal, the wine list is well-considered and the atmosphere is relaxed and Bohemian.
The menus consist of 5 courses and change every couple of weeks; the à la carte menu can even change during the same week. Vegetables and fish tend to be preferred over meat, with vegetarian – and even vegan – versions also available. Homemade and seasonal pickled Maukkels add a special touch, paired with bread from the neighbouring Way Baker.
The five-course menu costs €65, as does the wine package. The bistro is co-owned by wine importers, and the original concept was that of a wine bar. The house wine is a natural Riesling served in carafes during the summer; in autumn, they serve orange wine and red in winter. Natural wines are at the heart of Maukku, but there is more to offer. Customers can choose a bottle in the wine cellar, tasting it while listening to music.
Maukku
Hämeentie 26, 00530 Helsinki
Tel.: +358 (0)50 5051794
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Web: maukku.fi
"Peloton" has a double meaning in Finnish: while it refers to a group of road cyclists who ride together to reduce wind resistence, it also means fearless. It's the brainchild of madrileño Ángel Layos, who has worked as a sommelier in several of Helsinki's fine dining restaurants since 2013. As Finland had no bike café as in Madrid, London, Berlin or Sydney at the time, Layos decided to combine his passions, creating a restaurant, bike shop, workshop and store that offers low-threshold, uncomplicated, quality food – and excellent wines and drinks.
The restaurant's premises are rough around the edges, a perfect example of Helsinki's Brutal Bistro aesthetic. Its industrial chic has made it a favorite venue for major music festivals. Next door is a microbrewery, which provides special brews. The seasonal menu changes weekly, determined by the availability of local ingredients and giving patrons a reason to return. The creators' background in fine dining is tasted and felt in every dish.
The wine list is typical of Ángel Layos – not long, but a little bit crazy. Side by side you'll find approachable wines, naturals and high-culture offerings. Pricing is customer-friendly. Note that Peloton is a cash free restaurant and shop.
Peloton Cycling Eatery
Kaasutehtaankatu 1, Building No. 8, 00540 Helsinki
Tel.: +358 (0)50 336 6145
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Web: pelotonhelsinki.fi
If this restaurant would be located in London, one would have to reserve months in advance. Featuring ingredients that have fell out of fashion as well as traditional and forgotten cooking methods, it joyfully pushes boundaries by combining the old and the new. It's the very heart of the Brutal Bistro cult, situated in the hip suburb of Kallio. Kare Karhu, who also moonlights as a baker and No Wave Rock musician, has emerged as the go-to chef for gourmets who appreciate simple, straightforward cooking and lost classics.
The interior follows the austere cosiness of Brutal Bistro: Scant, worn, and refreshingly indifferent to passing trends. Together with Julia Juvonen, Karhu channels influences from Finland, Russia and France, following inspiration whereever it may lead. A self-proclaimed conservative, Karhu ignores the Zeitgeist, gleefully creating his own anti-trends. His rugged, traditional style takes Nose to Tail very seriously, using ingredients like animal heads, hooves, blood, marrow and offal – in addition to more conventional ingredients like game, fish, native varieties of vegetables, wild mushrooms and berries.
Gastro Cafe Kallio
Fleminginkatu 7, 00530 Helsinki
Tel.: +358 (0)50 309 0612
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Web: gastrocafe.fi
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