Ötztaler Stube im Hotel Das Central

It is usually the most sumptuous room in the house - the "Stube" or its Vorarlberg equivalent "Stuba", where the best food is served in the mountains of western Austria. This is also the case in Ötztal, where the "Ötztaler Stube" in the hotel "Das Central" is considered the top dog. Since 1969, officials and dignitaries have gathered at the log table under the Falkner family coat of arms. Cards were played here, but politics and the construction of the cable car were also discussed. Every change therefore costs patron Angelika Falkner an effort - she approved a "gentle relaunch". The old benches and Herzerl armchairs gave way to more comfortable furniture, the lighting was optimized to better showcase the performances of the new head chef Stefan Speiser. He already knows the place - Speiser was a sous-chef here twenty years ago and most recently ran the kitchen at the "Apron" in Vienna. The evening starts with a ritual. The guests gather in front of a fireplace, where aperitifs and canapés are served. Then it's over to the sanctuary, where they are presented with a Piatnik playing card set "Doppeldeutsche 36 Blatt" as a reminiscence of old times. And then Speiser gets started - again accompanied by the popular ingredient cards. Attention - danger! The delicious Buchteln invite you to drink up the delicious mixture of butter candle and roast pork juice - restraint is advised. Because the first highlight is approaching with Ikejime char - as tartare and fried - surrounded by purple radish plus Oscietra caviar, which, despite its intense frame, does not go under aromatically. Luxury is followed by plant-based dishes. Crispy magnolia blossom, chervil bulb with amarillo cream, fermented asparagus and Piedmont hazelnuts create a dish with earthiness and yet elegance. Stand-out: red mullet - briefly fried in tempura batter, filled with farce and carabinero tartare, creamed rice, salty fingers in paella broth and garum - a subtle dish full of maritime umami. To accompany the pulled goose, restaurant manager Marcel Altmann serves one of the many treasures from the 30,000-bottle cellar - a Kollwentz special bottling "40 years of Das Central" 2009 from the best Steinzeiler barrels. Anyway, there's always a glass of the "PINOT 3000", the in-house three-country cuvée invented here in the parlor, which matures in the "ICE Q" mountain dependency. Which, by the way, could be reconsidered: Background music with hits such as "Careless Whisper" in corny soft ice cream versions and the dignity of this room - that doesn't really go together. quite right.

Stefan Speiser creates modern Alpine cuisine with depth. The parlor shines anew and the menu starts with the Marende with Buchteln, sourdough bread, butter candle and pork juice - a real homeland moment.