The first whiff is of freshly cut Golden Delicious flesh, pervaded by both lemon zest and salted shortbread. More air reveals a hint of wet oyster shell. The palate is exquisitely brisk and vivid: lithe in its soaring lemon freshness but anchored in deepest, coolest, most salty soil that lends richness and vertical dimension. The mousse is fine and lively, the balance is striking, there is something heightened, precise and absolutely pure about this. It is a homage to Chardonnay and the Côte des Blancs and the most lovely, salty umami finish promises great a great future.