Port wine farm in Douro

Port wine farm in Douro
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Port: not just vintage

Vintage port is one of the world’s great wines. But the Douro produces so many other delicious, unique port styles capable of spanning every occasion from informal summer thirst quencher to seriously special collectors’ item.

It’s a glorious summer day in Porto. A gentle Atlantic breeze cools the tourists who throng the banks and cruise ships of the River Douro. It’s no surprise to see many of them grasp a glass of local Super Bock lager, but what’s this? Anyone who thought port was only for formal, wintery dining rooms should take a closer look at those other drinks on the table.

Vintage port may be this region’s flagship, but it’s hardly an everyday affair. In recent years port producers have been encouraging people to discover other styles, the sort they like to enjoy themselves on a balmy Douro evening.

First, there’s that classic Douro aperitif, white port and tonic. Just as simple to create as a G&T but less alcoholic and a touch less dry; it’s best enjoyed on a veranda decked with ripe citrus fruit, a waft of orange blossom in the air. For a more contemporary twist, settle onto the riverside roof terrace of the Espaço Porto Cruz and soak up the city’s UNESCO-grade view over a “porto tonico” garnished with rosemary and fresh ginger.

Ever since Croft Pink pioneered a new style of port back in 2008, other houses have seized on the creative cocktail opportunities of this sweeter yet still gloriously refreshing rosé style. For Porto Cruz, it’s the Cruz Spicy Pink, which incorporates orange and chilli: bold both on the eye and tastebuds.

As if to emphasise just how far removed these styles are from vintage port, several producers have now embraced the wider drinks trend for Ready To Drink canned formats. Croft and Offley have been early adopters but even Taylor’s, one of the most respected names in vintage port, has been happy to hop on this “Portonic” bandwagon. With its handy 250ml can and conscientiously moderate 5.5% ABV, Taylor’s Chip Dry & Tonic is just crying out for picnics or after work drinks in the park.

 

Entrance to Taylor's wine cellar museum
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Entrance to Taylor's wine cellar museum

But the alternative to vintage doesn’t have to mean cheap and cheerful. Tawny port has long been the primary specialism of Portuguese and Dutch houses such as Cálem or Kopke. Even as the British houses were busy selling pipes of vintage port to stately homes and London clubs, their directors could often be found rounding off a good lunch with tawny port.

They weren’t wrong. Best enjoyed chilled, with no need to cellar or decant, staying fresh for several weeks in the fridge once opened and without the formidable structure of vintage, tawny is alluringly approachable, entirely unstuffy yet capable of arguably equal greatness.

That case has never been made more powerfully than today. The market for younger tawny port may be in irrevocable decline, but the last decade has seen older tawny become undoubtedly the most dynamic corner of the port trade.

Taylor’s led the charge with the 2010 launch of Scion, a tawny port dating back to 1855. Initial scepticism that anyone would be willing to pay a significant four figure sum for a single bottle of port was soon blown away. Other houses started rummaging in their cellars.

Soon Graham’s launched its 1882 tawny Ne Oublie; Niepoort’s 170th Anniversary VV Tawny Port was based on the 1863 harvest; Quinta do Crasto marked its 400th anniversary in 2015 with the release of Honore Very Old Tawny Port, whose components were over a century old.

These old stocks show little sign of running dry. Indeed, last year governing body the IVDP created 50 Year Old and Very Very Old Tawny categories to support this push, not that producers needed much encouragement. This year alone Quinta do Vallado plans to launch a Very Old Tawny containing wine between 40 and 150 years old, while Van Zellers & Co will offer a special edition of just 25 cases containing a bottle each of 1860, 1870 and 1888 tawny port. Both producers are part of the Douro Boys group, who recently marked their 20th anniversary by unveiling a jointly blended 50 Year Old tawny port.

Quinta do Vallado vineyards.
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Quinta do Vallado vineyards.

It’s not just producers’ own milestones that provide an excuse for these special releases. Hot on the heels of a suitably venerable tawny to mark the 2022 Platinum Jubilee of Elizabeth II, Taylor’s has just released another Very Very Old Tawny Port to commemorate the coronation of Charles III.

Anyone seeking gift inspiration for a significant birthday would do well to consider these old tawny ports. Colheitas (single harvest tawny) have obvious appeal. So far Graham’s has released 1997, 1974 and 1950 editions, while anyone flying first class with British Airways can now sample a reviving glass of Dow’s 2007 tawny.

Fortunately for those on more modest budgets, there’s also enormous pleasure to be had dabbling in the 10, 20 and 30 year old tawny categories. If you want a wine capable of spanning cheese and dessert in style, then reach for a 20 year old tawny. For a more meditative glass, perhaps accompanied by a simple square of dark chocolate, upgrade quietly to a 30 year old.

As for a suitable subject for said meditation, consider the words of Cristiano van Zeller, whose family has been involved in the port business for over 400 years. “The luxury of time is a possibility to remember and enjoy past things in present terms and looking at the future.” Very few wines can meet this maxim so well as port.

Gabriel Stone
Gabriel Stone
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