Friedrichsruh in the Sachsenwald forest near Hamburg is a remarkable place. It was here that Otto von Bismarck had the Friedrichsruh forester's lodge built, which today offers surprisingly creative and different cuisine. All dishes are designed to be shared; two to three per person is ideal, followed by a dessert. The menu is divided into "Land", "Water" and "In the Bed", with head chef Lars Gärtner focusing on regional, produce-focused cuisine - with a few exceptions. Game is supplied by hunter Uwe Paulsen, eggs come from Hornbrooker Hof, fruit and vegetables from Vier- und Marschlanden, dairy products from Milchhof Reitbrook and fresh fish from Lütjensee. The special thing about Gärtner's cuisine is his skilful interplay with flavours, textures and temperatures. One highlight is the confit corn-fed poularde, glazed with a spicy chilli and apricot confit, complemented by pickled red onions, an intense herb foam and marinated cucumber - a refreshing and harmonious taste experience. The boiled potato cooked in milk with smoked cream cheese and leek and onion salad is a real feel-good dish. For dessert, on the other hand, the kitchen lacks the joy of experimentation: mixed berries pickled in sugar with fresh berries, whipped cream and caramelised white chocolate as well as blackcurrant oil are monotonous in taste. The modest wine list focuses on Germany, the non-alcoholic accompaniments are well thought out.
Restaurant manager, Sigrid Schilling deserves a special mention for her exceptional warmth.
Route
