The "Gabelspiel" is inconspicuously located in a corner where kebab stores and pizzerias usually dominate the gastronomic scene. But once you cross the curtain at the entrance, you enter a different world. There is room for 25 guests, a small adjoining room for family celebrations and, in summer, the beautiful garden on Zehentbauernstraße can be used. Even the appetizers open the field wide: Do the dumplings and red cabbage go in a down-to-earth direction? Can we look forward to more of the gamba tartare waiting in the sepia crunch? Or the tom kha gai-style egg? It starts cold: with faux grass, Florian Berger's signature dish. The faux foie gras goes wonderfully with fig, hazelnut and fig leaf oil. Add to this a Martha's Special Reserve Port - and you have finally arrived in a parallel universe that only knows about the world outside because the streetcar occasionally throws its lights through the windows. The temperature rises only minimally with the char, which nestles against peaches and warm yellow beet. It is covered with a watercress granité that slowly melts and turns into a sweet vinaigrette. A poetic course full of color and summer. Accompanied by a subtle Katrin-Wind Pinot Blanc from Landschneckenkalk, Berger's cuisine is self-assured, but not arrogant. It is full of warmth, without this being reflected in the temperature. It is all about subtle nuances, while there is loud laughter at the tables and in the service. This is not about show, but about the guests - which is not least due to Sabrina Berger's manner as hostess.
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