What a start to the day at "Hilmar" in the Schlosshotel Münchhausen. Lightning flashes across the ashen sky. Old trees bend in the wind in the baroque gardens. Thunder rolls over the lush lands of the Weserbergland, a downpour swells the castle moats all around. Admittedly, behind double-glazed coffered windows and with a proper wine list in hand, the storm resembles a natural spectacle, which is then quickly replaced by the spectacle on the plates. Stephan Krogmann, previously head chef at Gutshaus Stolpe, plays the keyboard of classic cuisine with a subtle, modern touch, including textures and temperatures - it's a pleasure. Iceland cod on mussel fumet? Amber mackerel, imperial caviar and kumquat? Wild herb sorbet on champagne granité? With seemingly simple combinations, the chef reveals the beauty of the best products. The seasoning, the ratio of ingredients: Each creation is finely balanced. A pink grilled étouffée pigeon breast with tender pointed cabbage, morels, leg and black pudding praline, Jerusalem artichokes, foie gras sauce and raspberry pigeon ice cream is particularly complex. The complexity of the food is picked up in the glass with a mature 2013 "Les Pagodes de Cos" from Cos d'Estournel, which is served as part of the wine accompaniment - there is hardly a more princely way to dine in Lower Saxony. Thanks to its idyllic location, an adjacent golf course and stylish guest rooms, the stately estate dating back to 1570 invites you to stay a little longer.
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