Kerstin Bauer and Max Goldberg have found their new home in a half-timbered house from the 17th century. The no-frills interior exudes charm and historical flair - a harmonious contrast to the modern cuisine and relaxed service. The two remain true to their tried and tested concept: there is only a nine-course menu, with a vegetarian option also available if ordered in advance. Sophisticated dishes are served for four hours, combining regional products with Asian flavors to create an exciting, inspired taste sensation. Right at the beginning, we get down to business with small bites: Goldberg impresses with beet braised in beeswax with quince cream, a slightly sweet ragout of river perch, Breton sea urchin, ginger, soy sauce, Jerusalem artichoke and hijiki seaweed as well as a bite of catfish in tempura batter with tikka masala and curry cream. Strong fish courses follow: char smoked over lavender, contrasted with pickled eggplant and a slightly acidic cucumber vinaigrette, and steamed pike-perch served with black radish, Japanese mikan ponzu with a hint of mandarin, refined with oil from grilled spring leeks. The grilled asparagus is accompanied by watercress cream and a deep egg yolk emulsion with wild garlic capers. The quail is served stuffed with a chicken liver farce and brioche. The sweet finale is a cinnamon-vanilla puff pastry snail with brandy caramel, accompanied by roasted Jerusalem artichoke ice cream. The wine list impresses with a mix of classics and (as yet) unknown names. Champagne fans will find more than 120 items.
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