Jérémy Desbraux and Anaëlle Roze's new restaurant looks elegant and sophisticated, we notice as we eat the amuse-bouches: we start with mushroom tartelette, salmon blini, a cheese-filled air cushion and the Totché cake typical of the region. We opted for the tasting menu, with an à la carte menu for those with a smaller appetite. The first course is appropriately staged for the Jura: Beans are served on fir branches under a glass with a bean vinaigrette and a mousseline of fir shoots. After the artichoke à la barigoule (Provençal style, stuffed with ham and mushrooms) with a hearty bedstraw broth comes Chef Jérémy Desbraux's signature dish: the surprise egg with a summer mushroom rim and meadow queen emulsion. How he prepares it remains his secret. Our discussion about the egg is interrupted by the next course, moules marinières with a ratatouille juice. A course with depth, followed by another fish course: a trout marbré with a lemon verbena broth. Fantastic! The main course is a perfect fillet of beef with reduced dark berries and a layered salad. We skip the cheese course, even though the cheese trolley is certainly tempting. The pré-dessert reminds us of the altitude of the Jura: the strawberries - served with farm milk and croquant - are only ripe here at the beginning of September. As a brilliant finale, Valais apricots are served as a warm Amandine tart, accompanied by elderflower ice cream. A dinner for which there are simply no words.
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