Three years ago, you could read here about the relocation of "Oniriq" - Innsbruck's best restaurant - to a new location. Regulars from the real estate industry created a place for the team at the time that was reminiscent of Copenhagen's "Geranium". After some confusion, things settled down with a new team. And now there has been another change: following the departure of the head chef, sous chef Ben Glowacz has taken over, while his twin sister Nadine - previously at Hangar-7 - is the new sommelier. The meal starts with a varied "prelude" - Tyrolean "Blattl" with carrot and marjoram, fried Romaine lettuce with fermented garlic and the legendary liver cassemmerl with egg yolk mayo, pickled kohlrabi and mustard seeds - all really good. The mushroom cream with the bread is addictive. The menu (four or seven courses) starts with the most elaborate dish - a plum mixture in the style of umeboshi at the bottom, followed by Alpine prawns with chard, peanut cream, trout caviar on top and prawn foam from the carcasses all around. Ideally mixed vertically, the layers create a wonderfully complex whole. Then purist: sweetbreads - the best part of the thymus gland - blanched for a long time and fried until crispy, topped with blanched cabbage sprout leaves with cranberries in a chervil sauce. Pink saddle of venison comes with a porcini mushroom croquette and oriental-spiced spinach strips with a nut butter and raw liver cream. A glass of the excitingly well-aged Blaufränkisch Bühl 2013 from Preisinger goes well with this. Depending on the budget, the great Krug vineyards, top Bordeaux, Loire rarities or a magnum of Dom Pérignon P3 Rosé 1988 are also in stock.
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