The "Speisemeisterei" is located in the western wing of Hohenheim Palace in Stuttgart. The historic complex, surrounded by extensive gardens, provides the ideal backdrop for classic cuisine with cosmopolitan, often Asian accents. The eight-course menu (245 euros incl. aperitif, petits fours etc.) opens - after precisely crafted trifles - with a poached Irish mór oyster with ponzu, caviar and lettuce. The delicate, creamy oyster meets crisp lettuce and juicy oyster leaf, while the ponzu adds a subtle sweetness. This is followed by a refreshingly sour and green "matjes" of lake trout and a fabulously cloudy and soft focaccia with whipped herb butter. Then it gets Mediterranean: Stefan Gschwendtner serves the crispy fried red mullet with a deep broth full of crustacean notes, fresh fennel salad and a somewhat scant blob of romesco. The veal shank agnolotti with parmesan, spinach and hazelnuts could have been a little more filling, but the Wagyu roast beef A5 that follows is a flawless piece of prime beef: crispy on the outside, meltingly rich on the inside. Crunchy chanterelles and chives seasoning round off the course. The pre-dessert is a house classic that could almost be accepted as the final dessert: creamy tigernut ice cream with cinnamon, a dollop of cream, coffee brew and almond crunch make for an "iced coffee" in a class of its own. The actual dessert - a somewhat ordinary-looking raspberry mousse - falls slightly short, but the accompanying sour cream ice cream is all the more impressive. A menu that is more than worth the short trip from nearby Stuttgart.
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