Wood-fired, slow-smoked, and lovingly prepared – these are the places to dine at in the Stockholm archipelago this summer.
Sweden's capital is a daytripper's dream: The Stockholm archipelago consists of around 30,000 islands and islets spread across more than 1,680 square kilometers. Better yet, many of them are easily accessible thanks to a well-developed public transport system, making it easy and affordable to embark on adventures, straight from the quays of central Stockholm. We’ve rounded up restaurants located anywhere from 40 minutes to three hours from the city – in both lively and secluded spots. What they all have in common: great food and gorgeous surroundings.
Recently renovated, this classic hotel offers a new gastronomic and events-focused concept – all without losing its characteristic vibe. Falstaff visited the main dining room, Verandan, which now offers modern comfort with a vintage feel. We order an adult-style non-alcoholic cocktail – and it’s spot on. Oysters, pikeperch with lobster and hollandaise – everything is prepared to perfection. The service is knowledgeable and relaxed. Often considered the capital of the archipelago, Verandan has become the restaurant Waxholm deserves .
Verandan
Hamngatan 2, Vaxholm, Sweden
waxholmshotell.se
A clear favorite among the archipelago’s foodies – where ingredients are placed front and center, prepared using modern techniques for contemporary tastes. Grilling and smoking are two important elements of the cuisine: the kitchen is equipped with a smoker, wood-fired oven and various grills. The wines are dynamic and trendy. New this year is Sunday pizza, served alongside the regular menu. Svartsö Krog has also taken over the nearby dockside café, which now hosts Friday after-work events. Expect grilled delicacies, small plates, fun wines, cold beer, and music. You can even spend the night in tastefully decorated canvas tents – dinner and breakfast basket included. Alternatively, they also have simple but charming boathouses. Don’t miss the country store’s cheese cabinet – packed with delicacies from near and far.
Svartsö Krog
Alsviksudd 397, Svartsö, Sweden
svartsokrog.se
If peace and quiet is what you're after, the car-free island of Nämdö is a perfect choice. In addition to the restaurant in Solvik, which also boasts a bakery, popular pizzeria, and grocery store, the island offers red cottages, massive cliffs, meadows, and pristine forest. You’ll also find a 19th-century wooden church, a small museum, and a local heritage center. Hike or bike between villages – and enjoy the food. The menu is small but well-considered, with modern and delectable flavors. The restaurant also boasts fantastic views and spacious outdoor seating. At the time of writing, Nämdö Slovik had no alcohol license – but nature makes a fine substitute.
Nämdö Solvik
Solvik 201, Nämdö
namdosolvik.com/ata
Craving real BBQ with a sea view? Not too far from the city, The Old Smokehouse lives up to its name, offering well-cured meats inspired by the American South and the Caribbean. They also work with traditional Swedish smoking methods – right where the old Bexanders smokehouse once stood (whom they collaborate with). We enjoyed juicy beer can chicken with a salad of strawberries, melon, grilled lemon and hickory-smoked feta. Other favorites include grill platters with brisket, El Bulli-style ribs, and chipotle-glazed Swedish beef. Vegetarian dishes, as well as fish and seafood, are also available. Portions are generous, and doggy bags are offered by default – still a rarity in Sweden. And speaking of dogs: they have their own menu, including canine-friendly ice cream. The newly built house is stylish, with a large outdoor seating area. In good weather, simpler dishes are served from a food truck on the wharf – think smoked shrimp (from Bexanders), nachos, and waffles.
The Old Smokehouse
Smedsuddsvägen 1, Saltsjö-Boo, Sweden
theoldsmokehouse.se
We end with a true classic – Sandhamns Värdshus, with roots dating back to 1672. The restaurant is open year-round (weekends only during low season) and serves traditional Swedish food like fried herring with mashed potatoes, smoked Baltic herring spread with whitefish roe on homemade rye bread, and S.O.S. (butter, cheese, herring) with home-pickled herring. In summer, the dockside terrace is the main attraction – you’ll find dishes like shrimp sandwiches, dill-stewed potatoes with cured salmon, and fish stew. Sandhamn is the main village on Sandön, located at the far edge of the eastern archipelago. In summer, it’s a lively place full of boats, day-trippers, and vacationers. There are several other eateries (we’re also fond of Dykarbaren), great beaches, a smokehouse, bakery, historic houses, and stunning natural surroundings.
Sandhamns Värdshus
Sandhamn 101, Sandhamn, Sweden
sandhamns-vardshus.se
BONUS TIP
Stavsnäs vinterhamn is a well-frequented hub for ferries to destinations like Sandhamn, Nämdö, and Runmarö – but now, there's a reason to stop here a little longer than usual. Stavsnäs Krog has brought Niclas Ryhnell on board, one of Sweden’s most flavor-savvy chefs. The menu is based on seasonal ingredients – like an exceptional summer potato salad with tasty vegetables and smoked salmon. Next time, we hope to try Ryhnell's blood pudding with crispy pork and grilled apple. In the bistro, you’ll find pizza, pizzette, and focaccia – with both classic and experimental toppings.
Stavsnäs Vinterhamn
Stavsnäsvägen 222, Stavsnäs, Sweden
stavsnaskrog.se
