The concept of the "Sunny Bar" in the "Kulm Hotel St. Moritz" is impressively simple: we should feel like we're in one of London's legendary gentlemen's clubs, explains restaurant manager David - in English of course and, to our particular delight, with an Irish accent. Chesterfield sofas, dark wood, the framed photos of the Cresta Runners on the walls and the English conversation of the international guests transport us to the island in an instant. Just like the menu, which has borne the signature of top British chef Tom Booton for a good three years. Until last summer, he was head chef at the legendary Dorchester in London, but will soon be opening his own restaurant, David tells us. We start with Tom's fried chicken - a crispy yet tender bite of deep-fried chicken with caviar topping that leaves you wanting more. This is followed by cod cheeks wrapped in beer batter on tartar sauce with pickled cucumber: fresh, creamy and delicious. A little crème fraîche gives the sauce a fine, buttery depth. David prepares the beef tartare with confit egg yolk before our eyes on a historic serving trolley and finishes it off with grated, dried ox heart - a touch of umami that grounds the dish. In the glass: Donatsch Pinot Noir Passion from the compact but harmonious drinks menu. For our main course, we share the perfectly cooked, juicy roast chicken, accompanied by a salad of crispy chicken skin, a Booton classic. And although we have long since had our fill, the coffee and cream soft ice cream with hazelnuts is a tempting finale: pleasantly balanced and nostalgic. It would be hard to find a better British restaurant in this country.
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