In many Christian countries, fish is traditionally served on Good Friday – but is that still a religious custom at this point? Fish sommelier Marcel Mergen of Munich's Poseidon am Viktualienmarkt talks about how seafood is moving beyond its role in Lent, the trendiest fish varieties – and his ultimate Good Friday recipe.
Falstaff: Mr. Mergen, Good Friday and Ash Wednesday are fasting days where fish is traditionally served. How does this religious tradition affect Poseidon am Viktualienmarkt?
Marcel Mergen: Of course we sell more fish on those days, but religious considerations play a much smaller role today. Today, that custom is more of a cultural habit: People deliberately fast before feasting again on Easter Sunday. At the same time, fish is more popular than ever. While it was mostly the older generation that bought fish in the past, seafood now reaches a much broader audience, including many younger people.
Why is fish enjoying such popularity right now?
The pandemic changed consumption. People became more experimental, cooked more at home and discovered new types of fish. While salmon or tuna were the only popular fish in the past, exotic varieties such as fresh sardines are now increasingly enjoyed in Germany. Fish also benefits from the growing trend toward healthy living: Fish is seen as a more sustainable alternative to meat and has impressive health benefits.
Which types of fish are particularly popular at the moment?
Winter cod and Dutch matjes traditionally do well on Good Friday. But sardines and anchovies have gained popularity, thanks to our neighbors in the South. And ceviche, especially with tuna, salmon or cod, is a major ongoing trend.
Ceviche and anchovies are a delicacy for many, but others are put off by the very idea. What alternatives are there for the less daring?
Sea bream and sea bass are tried and tested classics – especially when caught wild. If you prefer something more refined, you should try Breton turbot. Local freshwater fish like char and zander are also great options. And if you like your fish smoked, we have sensational smoked salmon, as well as smoked char and trout directly from Lake Schlier. It's simply divine served with hash browns and a little creamed horseradish.
Is there an underrated fish dish you would recommend for Good Friday?
Homemade fish sticks! Many opt for the frozen version, but if you bread and fry them yourself and serve them with a homemade remoulade of anchovies, capers and lots of parsley, they are a real culinary delight. And you don't even need a deep fryer, a pan is all you need.
What type of fish would you like to see on menus more often?
Razor clams – a French delicacy that we serve au gratin in our restaurant with a colorful side salad. Simply delicious, but unfortunately still very underrated in Germany!
Why do so many people fail to prepare fish properly at home?
The biggest mistake is cooking at the wrong temperature. Especially when poaching, a common mistake is placing the fish in boiling water. The water should never boil – the ideal temperature is around 95 degrees, so your fish remains succulent, but firm. When frying, it is important to adjust the heat depending on the type of fish – firmer fish such as salmon need more heat. Choosing the right oil is also crucial: Olive oil should never be too hot, otherwise it will burn and become bitter – better to use it as seasoning towards the end.
Many people have a fear of fish bones – can one overcome that?
The easiest way is to have the fish professionally filleted. If you want to be on the safe side, go for loin filets – they are practically boneless, but you can never be 100 percent sure. There's nothing to be afraid of, but caution is always a good thing.
You are not only a fishmonger, but also a fish sommelier – what does that mean?
It means I have a comprehensive knowledge of fish – ranging from quality to correct storage and preparation. I completed a specialized course and passed an certification exam in Bremerhaven. I can tell you exactly what the nutritional values of different types of fish are, how high their protein content is, and I'm familiar with varieties that most people have never heard of – and I'm happy to share my expertise!
