Lighter red wines from Italy

Lighter red wines from Italy
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Five uncommon Italian light red wines that should be on your radar

Falstaff was on a mission to discover Italian red wines made by uncommon varieties.

Coco Chanel once said: “Fashion is made to become unfashionable”. This turns out to be true in the wine world. For the last few decades, flamboyant red wines with vibrant fruits, fuller-bodied, darker colour and even pronounced oak-derived vanilla and chocolate flavours have gained popularity. To make such wines, growers have opted for grape varieties or different clones that can produce a richer and more opulent style of wines. Yet, fashion comes and goes. Global warming means grapes now ripen more easily even in cooler areas and reaching a higher alcohol content becomes undesirable rather than a goal. Making lighter and more refreshing red wines is on trend. This gives rise to the revival of grape varieties once regarded as inferior, possibly due to it being acidic, tannic, and having less body and alcohol.

In the recent Slow Wine Fair in Bologna, Falstaff was on a mission to discover Italian red wines that can keep their cool despite the risen heat. Here are five invigorating red wines made by uncommon varieties that should be on everyone’s radar.

Grignolino d'Asti, Piemonte

Grignolino rose to fame when it was revealed as Pope Francis’ favourite wine. It is a native grape variety that originated from the hills of Moferrato in Piedmont between the towns of Asti and Casale. Some believe the name Grignolino means “pip” in the local dialect (as it has three rather than two seeds); others think that it refers to “grimace”, the facial expression once you have a bite of the acidic Grignolino grape. Either way, you get the idea why modern palates don’t appreciate it too much. However, Grignolino’s pale colour, delicate aromas of floral, cranberries and white peppers, and its capability to produce wines that are normally around 12.5-13% ABV ticks all the boxes, and it is enjoying a mini-revival. Scarzella is one of the producers who presented Grignolino d'Asti at the Slow Wine Fair. Run by three young brothers from the third generation of a family of wine growers, they make a delicious Grignolino d'Asti that winemaker Alessandro Scarzella suggests can also be drunk slightly chilled on a warm sunny day.

Vinery region of Piemonte, Northern Italy.
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Vinery region of Piemonte, Northern Italy.

Corvina Veronese, Veneto 

Corvina Veronese has many faces. In its homeland near Lake Garda in Veneto, it is the superior blending component for Bardolino DOC wines, producing fresh and crisp red wines with around 12.5% ABV. But it can also go through the drying process (appassimento) and turn into powerful Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG wines.

As lighter and lower-alcohol wines are becoming trendy, gorgeously cherry-scented Bardolino wine is also enjoying a renaissance. Nowadays, Corvina Veronese is so appreciated that the new regulations allow for a maximum of 95% Corvina in the blend (an increase from 80%) in Bardolino DOC wines. Producers such as Gentili are making various styles of wine using Corvina: from Chiaretto (rose wine), and sparkling wine to classic reds. All of them are bright and vibrant with fresh red fruit notes and zesty acidity. Gentili is also experimenting with maturation in terracotta and wood barrels. Great diversity in style is to be expected from this grape. Watch the space.

Lambrusco, Emilia-Romagna

Lambruscos deserve a second chance! Don’t be misled by what happened back in the ‘70s when the shelves in the export markets were filled with cheap and cheerful sweet, soda-like Lambruscos. Things have changed. Lambruscos come in different shades (pink and red versions) and in many different styles, from dry to sweet and anything in between.

Lambrusco grape variety has a big family and each has its own character. They tend to be a blend of various Lambrusco varieties and the most common ones are Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Grasparossa and Lambrusco di Sorbara, but rarer ones such as Lambrusco Marani, Maestri, Oliva can also be found in the blend. Tank method is commonly used, but the traditional method and undisgorged bottle-fermented version using the ancestral method can also be found. Organic producer Podere Giardino made a range of stunning Lambruscos by blending various varieties and using all the above-mentioned methods to create a series of elegant bubbly wines. All the wines are so refreshing and have between 11.5% and 12% ABV. Whether it is the bone-dry version or the off-dry ones, they are all delightful. A must-have on everyone’s Glou Glou wine list.

Barbera del Sannio (Camaiola), Campania

This is an indigenous grape variety from Campania. Despite its name, Barbera del Sannio in fact is not related to the well-known Barbera of Piedmont. To avoid further confusion, local producers are now promoting this variety in what is believed to be its traditional name, “Camaiola”. This is an easy and reliable grape to grow and in the past, it is mainly used as a colouring component in blends. By itself, Camaiola (Barbera del Sannio) can be juicy and easygoing, with charming red cherry notes and a hint of herbaceous. Organic wine producer Monserrato 1973 matures their Camaiola in amphorae for eight months making a delicious wine with crunchy red cherry and strawberry notes with 13% ABV.

Monica, Sardegna

Monica is the third most-planted grape variety on the island of Sardinia. It is the island’s workhorse grape, producing reliable crops and tends to be blended with other grape varieties. For generations, it has been seen as an unremarkable variety with dark skin and made in numerous styles. It’s easy-drinking, and gently tannic with subtle red fruits and a hint of fresh herbs. In good hands and under low yields, Monica can be a fantastic table wine. Many producers on the island are now making more serious wines from Monica, including I Garagisti Di Sorgono, an artisanal winemaking project initiated by three friends, Pierto Uras, Simone Murru and Renzo Manca, using grapes from 70 to 100-year-old vines in Sorgono, planted on white granite soils at 480metre altitude. Their Murru wine is made from 100% Monica (Monica di Sardegna DOC) in stainless steel tanks to preserve the plentiful red fruits that Monica is so capable to show. The alcohol is 14% however, but very well balanced with the fruit intensity and concentration. And relatively lower compared to their other equally well-made Monica blended wine, Uras (15% ABV).

Leona De Pasquale
Leona De Pasquale
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