Its reputation as one of the finest estates in the Douro Valley precedes every mention of Quinta do Noval. Falstaff was allowed to taste not just one but two verticals.
When Christian Seely took over the running of Quinta do Noval in 1993, on behalf of AXA Millésimes, he wanted to make real improvements. The changes he made can be tasted today.
Part of Seely’s plan for this venerable Quinta was to start a comprehensive programme of replanting that would take years. Vineyards were planted to single grape varieties according to which best suited aspects and soils best, rather than in a traditional field blend. The idea was that this would give the estate more control over harvesting, over blending, over quality. It would also enable the estate to release vintages – even in small quantities – of the best parcels or blends of the best parcels with more regularity. As a result, Noval Vintage Ports have now become somewhat of a collector's item with vintages being released much more regularly. The most recent releases were: 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2008, 2007, 2004, 2003, 2000, 1997, 1995 and 1994.
There is one part of Quinta do Noval that outshines all others: a small, single vineyard called Nacional, a tiny parcel planted, in the words of Quinta do Noval, “with ungrafted vines and untouched by phylloxera.” The parcel was named ‘Nacional’ because “the vines are Portuguese vines growing in Portuguese soil with no foreign root stock, and therefore attached to the soil of the nation – the pride of the people of Portugal.” Naturally, the quantities released are miniscule: From the 2020 vintage, just 160 12-bottle cases were made, of which only 80 have been released so far.
“There are years when we know straight after the treading in the lagar [the granite troughs in which the grapes are foot-trodden] that we will be declaring a Nacional Vintage Port, and 2020 was one of these,” notes Seely. “The wine displays the complexity and many-layered profundity that are typical of a great Nacional.” He says of the “hot, dry” 2020 vintage that it “resulted in wines that are extremely rich and powerful, voluminous, sensual, with great density. The tannic structure is immense, but with remarkable finesse.”
