Trier on the Moselle isn’t exactly known as a culinary mecca. This makes it all the more important that Christine and Wolfgang Becker, a couple of restaurateurs, have been tirelessly flying the flag for fine wine and dining culture here for decades. The owner has experienced great heights as a chef and entrepreneur, but has also weathered some deep lows. He doesn’t let that deter him, however, remaining true to his ingredient-driven culinary art rooted in French traditions, without chasing every passing trend. Hats off! With his small, dedicated, and friendly team, Wolfgang Becker runs both the down-to-earth wine bar and the elegant fine-dining restaurant in the design hotel built in 2007. The proximity to France and Luxembourg is reflected above all in the sauces—a subtly flavored chive nage accompanying the bacon-wrapped St. Peter’s fish, a chili-spiced lobster sauce with the scallops, or an umami-rich truffle jus with the U.S. Black Angus filet—which, unfortunately, was not served medium as requested. Even the langoustine royale, undeniably of the highest quality, could have stayed in the pan a few moments longer. A signature dish is Becker’s no-frills foie gras terrine, which we enjoyed as an amuse-praline on pumpernickel crumble. As for wine, we stuck with a juicy, full-bodied Chardonnay from the Becker estate, which paired effortlessly with all the fish and meat courses—just as effortlessly and with the same quick wit as Christine Becker, who also runs the winery and presided over her duties as sommelier.
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