A pleasantly bitter Negroni to toast, and the antipasti are served: Lardo and sausage, cheese and pear, polo salad with chickpeas, burrata with fig, roasted porcini mushrooms, tuna tartare on crispy bread, a small pizza bianca, an unrivalled delicious vitello tonnato. It's already clear: tavolata for four or more people - it's fun! And the first bottle of Miolera, an elegant Barbera from the small Piedmontese winery Mura Mura, is soon empty. Tuesday evening in Zurich-Altstetten, the "Trattoria Freilager" with its 70 seats is almost full. Antonio Colaianni has proven over the years that he can do gourmet. Most recently at Zurich's "Ristorante Ornellaia", which he was forced to leave at the end of April last year. Now the top chef, who, like business partner and host Marco Però, has his roots in Apulia, is showing that he can also cook better down to earth than most other Italians. The primi piatti have it all: fusilli with fresh porcini - wow. The second pasta is even better: maccheroni al ragù di polpo. Like a Bolognese, but with squid, savoury, slightly hot, the winner of the day. For the main course, we have veal balls with a nice deep jus, wild grilled gamberoni and monkfish. The second bottle is now empty. To finish, the service prepares a light and really refreshing tiramisù at the table, accompanied by a glass of Sicilian sweet wine from Planeta. Sfogliatelle, baba au rhum and cannoli are not to be missed with the espresso. For two hours we forget that it's actually only Tuesday - la vita è bella!