Because the real "Chez Donati" is being renovated, a temporary location has been created on Barfüsserplatz - above the "Brötlibar", which still provides uncomplicated snacks. Things are dignified here. Tables set in white, uniformed waiters. It would be unimaginable for anyone to sit around unobserved for even a minute. Regulars are greeted with a handshake and no one has to wait for wine recommendations. We start with Ferrari rosé, fine Bürli and good olive oil. The menu is dominated by classics. Gazpacho with San Marzano tomatoes, Parma ham with melon, sea bream for two. Our vitello tonnato is impeccably seasoned, the sauce is easily enough to soak the bread in. Seppie e piselli are almost a creative flight of fancy: The mixture of finely chopped and meticulously cooked strips of cuttlefish and peas is expertly seasoned and the epitome of a summery Italian dish. The maître does not advise against the requested Vermentino, but recommends an Apulian blend of Fiano and Chardonnay from Pietrabianca, while at the next table, despite the mild outside temperatures, a bottle of strong red wine is opened. That's right, why wait for winter with Amarone and Vino Nobile? The menu is well-stocked anyway, and the wines by the glass range from Lageder's Pinot Grigio to Prunotto's Barbaresco. The highlight of the Donati spectacle, however, is the dessert trolley, which you can let yourself be tempted by. We try strawberries and tiramisu, the first aromatic, the second quite sweet. Just like it used to be.
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