In hardly any other cosmopolitan city is the relationship between residents and hotel restaurants characterized by such cautious restraint as in Vienna. While in London or Paris, the local public naturally also enjoys frequenting the starred or trendy restaurants, this tends to be the exception in Vienna - "Ritz-Carlton", "Park Hyatt" or "The Amauris" enjoy good to excellent bookings. Others like this one have a harder time despite their premium location. In "The Leo Grand", which opened in 2022, the DOTS Group was initially responsible for catering. After the group was largely dissolved, the "Lenikus Group" now runs the hotel's catering itself. Head chef István Törzsök previously worked at the nearby "The Bank" and is supposed to cook cosmopolitan food here according to the motto "Make fine dining sexy again" borrowed from the MAGA people - whatever that means. Here's what's on the plate: an unobtrusively seasoned sea bass ceviche with daikon, fennel, cucumber and grapefruit. Mild veal tartare with shiitake and lime. An amiably small and good piece of fluffy langoustine with crème fraîche, spring onion, onion chutney and a little mountain cheese slicer is imaginatively priced at 19 euros. "Red duck" (34 euros) consists of two slices of pink breast with beet mousse and very firm slices in sweet and sour cranberry jus and three leaves of sorrel. Although everything is quite red and tastes earthy, it is difficult to discover a successful flavor chord. The wine list naturally includes a lot from the owner's organic vineyard, the rest is a rather confusing hodgepodge, with the bombastic sparkling wines being particularly eye-catching.
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