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Fukagawa

Fine Dining
89
Falstaff Magazine Germany No. 3/2026 - Six pack

Felix Thoms and Leonardo Donati cook with remarkable precision at "Fukagawa", their Japanese-French fusion cuisine consistently translates ramen tradition into fine dining. Donati was able to recruit Berlin-born Felix Thoms as head chef. The 35-year-old opened the restaurant "Bob & Thoms" in Schöneberg in 2019. Thoms is now devoting himself intensively to Japanese cuisine for Fukagawa. He will be supported by Markus Suntinger, who has a wealth of experience at Golvet, Coda and Bonvivant. The menu at "Fukagawa" with eight or optionally nine courses is based on the three basic elements of traditional ramen: oil, broth and seasoning. Four home-made broths form the foundation: Chintan chicken broth, tori paitan, tonkotsu made from pork bones and Chintan vegetable broth. The opening clearly shows the philosophy: cold ramen shot and filled praline demonstrate the range. The hand-dipped scallops from Brittany with black garlic oil in Tonkotsu reduction are just as impressive as three cuts of Bluefin tuna. Outstanding: the Wagyu rib eye from Kagoshima, prepared on the Konro grill with Binchotan charcoal. The execution is impeccable, although individual dishes could be a little more focused. What else is impressive: the harmonious interior, the flawless presentation, the excellent wine list with a focus on Germany and Austria. Alternatively, there is a sake or non-alcoholic tea accompaniment. In times when fine dining is under pressure in Germany, such a concept is courageous. Thoms and Donati have the craftsmanship and the ambition to make it work, to make it work.

44 /50 Food
17 /20 Service
18 /20 Wine
10 /10 Style
Payment Conditions: Cash, Debit Card, Credit Card, NFC
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