The 27th floor of Leipzig's "Falco" has become, if you like, the eighth floor of Berlin's "Golvet": Peter Maria Schnurr has been at the stove here since February. This was preceded by the sudden closure of the two-star restaurant in Leipzig. However, this is not a downfall for the top chef. Instead, his dishes have become a little more approachable: For example, a butter-fried Norway lobster with pumpkin puree and bisque. This is how outstanding classicism works - if this summary did not border on insulting for Schnurr, the enfant terrible of the German Michelin-starred cuisine scene. He even cooks with broccoli, which he refused to eat in any form fifteen years ago. But that's about it for mellow old age. Schnurr and his team serve carrot bread sticks with a hit seaweed-jalapeño-pear-yoghurt dip. Pork belly with smoked eel? Cod with Brussels sprouts and raspberry? Celery ice cream with chocolate? The chef never tires of trying out new combinations. The Nebraska beef with a five-herb egg dish and a glossy gnocchi of eggplant is also really strong. Sommelier Andrea Agosta polishes off the hearty meat flavors with a fruity Syrah-Grenache cuvée (2020, Domaine de Panisse, Le Mazet). For those who want an even more sophisticated drink, there is a premium wine pairing to choose from - including a 2018 Sauvignon Blanc from the Neumeister winery in Styria or a 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin from Domaine Geantet-Pansiot. This also goes well with the high product quality, which can also be tasted when Schnurr conjures up popcorn from a langoustine.
Route
