Whether the name allegedly has to do with a former red light zone or the small size of the location remains to be seen. The trio who have been working here since the end of 2024 have left it as it is. Klemens Grassl takes care of the management, the twin sisters Eva and Julia Schnabl take care of the cuisine. The former is in charge of the open kitchen and previously worked at prestigious addresses such as "Coda" in Berlin and the "Mühltalhof". Julia is the owner and looks after the guests. Striking: a mountain of bread on the Budel, many a bakery would be happy to be able to bake such good sourdough bread as the in-house Kabuff-Wecken. You'll also need plenty of them - the sauces from Eva's vegetable-centered menu make dipping compulsory. The evening menu, known as "SPÄT", says "to share", and the "Quer durch" menu is recommended for two or more diners. A delicious snack: soft quail eggs with mustard mayo and mustard caviar. Then raw marinated kohlrabi with buttermilk-lemon verbena vinaigrette, salt lemon, elder capers and "a rough amount" of smoked sheep's cheese from Nuart in Carinthia - vegetarian cuisine in a class of its own, complex and full of finesse. More rustic: celeriac braised in the oven, then grilled and lacquered with celeriac miso reduction in a sauce with mountain cheese. Gorgeous and one of the few dishes with fish or meat: ricotta, peas and cassis in a delicate pea broth with smoked sturgeon from the same breeder whose "Alpine caviar" is widely appreciated. Also astonishing: the glass culture - it is extremely rare to come across hand-blown goods from MARKTHOMAS. When it comes to wine, you just have to share the love of natural wines here, or switch to the fine Ober-Trumer beer.
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