It only takes fifteen minutes by car from Salzburg with its hordes of tourists and Mozartkugel discos to reach this absolute idyll. The "Winding Guts" has been located at the top of Bergheimer Voggenberg since 1392. However, due to legal disputes, the magnificent excursion inn was closed for longer. Now Christina and Fritz Rigele have leased the house. The couple run the 4* superior hotel "Rigele Royal" in Obertauern in winter and now also indulge in passionate hospitality in summer. In the garden you can enjoy the view over the Flachgau region towards Bavaria. The interior bears the traces of several renovations and it is best to turn right into the historic parlor. Hikers can enjoy "Knacker salad", snacks "from the board" with home-smoked bacon or cheese bread - with good mountain cheese on great sourdough bread. In addition, head chef Patrick Pass, who has moved here from Obertauern, provides simply good cuisine with a high standard and a little nod to the finer things in life. The lukewarm marinated salmon trout in nut-brown organic butter with ponzu, chili mayo and truffle miso could not be bettered. In contrast, the freshly smoked char with herb butter and horseradish is simple and good. Or the bratwurst that Fritz Rigele had to fight for - against the prevailing religion of thin sausages in Salzburg, there was a butcher in Lochen am See who took pity on him and made a nice thick sausage for the innkeeper. The patisserie can do it too: tartelette with cherries from their own tree is a must. Given the finely curated and reasonably priced wine list, a cab would be advisable. And Bollinger wines for less than 95 euros can take a long time to find in Salzburg.