When Thomas Seifried was last mentioned on these pages - in an extremely positive light - he was working at the "Schiefe Laterne" in Graz in 2011. Then the native of Wolfsberg, who had previously gained experience at the "Grand Hotel" and "The Ring" in Vienna, was finally drawn into the world of the top hotel industry. He spent eleven years at the Ritz-Carlton in the Cayman Islands as Chef de Cuisine at Eric Ripert's "Blue", whose New York flagship "Le Bernardin" is one of the first seafood addresses in the USA. Until he was called back home in 2025, where the former Vienna Commercial Court mutated into the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. As executive chef, Seifried is responsible for the entire gastronomy - and makes an announcement with a refusal. Both restaurants - the "Atelier 7 Brasserie" and "Le Sept" - are primarily dedicated to the passion of the self-confessed "seafood enthusiast". And the often ludicrous attempt to include Viennese set pieces in the repertoire is completely absent. The stages for schnitzel, Tafelspitz and co. are within walking distance. There are two things to report about "Le Sept". Firstly, the interior designers seem to have run out of ideas at the last minute. In other words, the hotel's top restaurant deserves a more dignified setting than a dimly lit extra room with artificial candles and a wobbling flame as decoration. A redesign is planned soon. Much more important point two: a seafood menu of this extra class can be found elsewhere in Austria. Here is just one example: Hamachi (exceptional) briefly braised on kimchi emulsion, with a little nashi pear to contrast the spiciness. Served with pickled hon shimeji mini mushrooms, crispy nori leaf and sea asparagus. Great, highly intelligent cuisine. Or Alaskan king crab on chawanmushi with artichoke à la barigoule with a delicate bacon flavor and caviar. Finely tuned, the ingredients like a well-rehearsed orchestra. Or really great products without chichi: scallops with wild mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and alba truffles in smoked butter. Sommelier Christopher Oswald, most recently also in Grand Cayman, serves the oxidative Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine from Weinviertler Gut Schödl - the ideal partner. After six ocean courses, A5 Miyazaki Wagyu as striploin and short rib praline. And patisserie classics for the finale - "Mont Blanc" made from meringue and chestnut mousse with cognac cherries. You can tell from the wine list that the hotel has only just opened. And the solution to a mystery. What's with the "7" in the name of the restaurants? Just take a look at the house number.