The operators advertise their "Nivo Zwoi" with the slogan: "Not upmarket, just up". Stefan Minsel works in the restaurant on the second floor, offering a classic menu and a signature menu in addition to à la carte. He previously cooked at "Solbad Schweizerhalle" and has been working in Olten since October. He welcomes us with a tray decorated with moss and bones, topped with a basket of tartare, field caviar, yuzu drops and sour clover plus a cornet filled with feta cream. This is followed by bread that Minsel has baked at Vögeli Beck in Hägendorf, accompanied by flavored butter and pumpkin seed paste reminiscent of foie gras. To present his cuisine in all its facets, he sends us dishes from both menus. The duck liver is bold and unforgettable, served both fried with chervil root and as a terrine. The carrot course, in which the vegetables are presented as a puree, oil, dust, foam, cake and fried, is magnificent. The quails on lentils and truffles and the blackcurrant beurre-blanc are also successful. The main courses are venison and poularde de Bresse. The chicken breast is topped with puffed quinoa and fine spruce sprout mayonnaise, accompanied by dabs of quince and celery. The tender venison fillet is served with jus and black walnut mousse. A perfect ménage-
à-trois! The dessert is delicate and
and delicate: Piedmont hazelnut
with pear, tuiles, semolina and chocolate. The apple strudel is deconstructed, but not outlandish - as the slogan emphasizes.
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