In economically and politically difficult times, people strive for the tried and tested; safety comes before experimentation. Perhaps this is why the "Orsini" has been a success, as the new Winterthur restaurant - not to be confused with a Zurich establishment of the same name - is reviving the "safe" eighties and nineties of the last century. The website lays it on thick, talking of "Saveur de la France" and a "feast for the senses", conjuring up classic French gastronomic culture somewhere between brasserie and gourmet restaurant. And they haven't skimped on the furnishings: there are wine cabinets, beautifully laid tables and, on my visit, an all-female service that is cordial, friendly and competent. Not to be taken for granted given the general staffing problems! Speaking of wine: it comes from France, of course. Crémant from Bouvet-Ladubay at nine francs a deci, champagne from Lanson at 17 francs - that's fair. Even 2017 Château Cantemerle is served by the glass, the white Corton-Charlemagne from Méo-Camuzet from the 2010 vintage by the bottle. Great. The kitchen poured a drop of water into the wine that evening, which seemed overwhelmed despite good attempts. The terrine de foie gras was not too beautifully presented, the champagne foam soup lacked a little depth of flavor. Coq au vin with lots of bacon and mushrooms, served in a pot, turned out better (the small portion costs 35, the large one
64 francs). Served with potato gratin, of course, which lacked a little salt and nutmeg. Homemade, originally prepared chocolate mousse rounded off the evening in a restaurant with potential.
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