Joachim Busch's fans are now in a frenzy - in both senses of the word. After a year's break, the 38-year-old, who cooked up two stars for the "Gustav", has set up his own business at the same location together with his partner Philipp Günther and redesigned the restaurant. The two of them promote "intoxication" as a culinary state. Unlike the guests at the tables next to us, however, we didn't experience anything like this feeling - nor did we notice any "intoxication of flavors" (the title of the menu). However, we did find excellent products, precise craftsmanship, interesting compositions and an unmistakable signature. Busch himself speaks of "modern home cooking". His flavors are rather subtle and elegant; side dishes do not distract from the essentials. Instead of the sweet notes that now often dominate, he focuses on concise acidity - and intense roasted aromas. Although these lend a striking flavour to both the charcoal-grilled Norway lobster (with caramelized cream, horseradish, roasted rapeseed and powdered coastal fir and oil) and the excellent, dry-aged guinea fowl breast (with crunchy green beans, chanterelles, banyuls hollandaise and guinea fowl jus), they unfortunately also spread strongly from the open kitchen into the dining room. In contrast, the variation of tomato and organic pork from the region is excellent - and typical for Busch: sous-vide cooked and spicy grilled pork belly and pork knuckle in a ravishing mussel vinaigrette with roasted linseed and borage.
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