A turquoise-blue stove dominates the “Zoe” dining room; we’ll see this color again throughout our meal. Maël Hêche and Joel Coray, who were already working in the kitchen, are stepping into the rather large shoes of former head chef Fabian Raffainer. The amuse-bouches promise a spectacle: a fennel tartlet with puffed amaranth, a wild mushroom basket, and a crispy potato ball with lovage powder and pickled onions. The next course is a Williams pear purée served with fermented red cabbage, quinoa, and mustard sorbet. Hêche and Coray source their delicious sourdough bread from the Sicula bakery. We try it with a beet, carrot, and tomato tartare, leek oil butter, and olive oil—wonderful. The appetizer pairs perfectly with the bread: two varieties of pumpkin, surrounded by chestnuts, sea buckthorn, and sea holly. The ingredients are brought together with an exquisite sauce made from pumpkin, pumpkin seeds, and ginger. For the main course, the chefs pull out all the stops: potatoes from the Albula Valley with savoy cabbage, sauerkraut, roasted onion purée, salty quince gel, and a jus made from fermented garlic. Then cannelloni with goat cheese, Calvados foam, cauliflower florets, compressed apple pieces, balsamic gel, and smoked almond chips. We can’t help but let out sighs of delight. After the pre-dessert—magnolia mousse, fennel salad, and fig leaf oil—comes a baked apple served as sorbet and purée on a salt-lemon gel, crème fraîche espuma, cinnamon crackers, and cinnamon oil. All courses are served on spectacular turquoise plates, making you hesitate for a moment before destroying these works of art. But only for a moment.
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