Anyone expecting historical parlors in view of the baroque façade and the announcement "since 1416" may be disappointed. Neo landlord Christian Schrempf is not responsible for the way his predecessors treated the historical substance. He renovated what was still there and made the very best of it with beautiful fabrics and new wooden tables. Now, after a burger and Vietnam phase, the "Schanzlwirt" really is a landlord again and an offer away from the old town zone - just opposite is the LKH Graz. Because there is always a risk that someone will find the portions too small in the low-threshold restaurant business, the retired couple at the next table spend 30 minutes trying to get through the huge, juicy roast pork with its mountain of napkin dumplings and caraway and cabbage salad. A good alternative: the five-course surprise menu as a small-portioned excerpt from the menu. From the series of popular gimmicks with the Vitello Tonnato recipe, there is "Vitello Salmerino" with smoked char cream - an intense dish that calls for a sip of Augustiner on tap in the Munich version. The kitchen manages the wild garlic soup in such a way that the mouth doesn't spend the rest of the day on it. Thank you. A solidly fried piece of Arctic char lies on a spinach and tender wheat mixture, with a rhubarb chutney on top as a fresh element that doesn't interfere. With the dry boiled beef, you can learn why other more marbled cuts of beef are often the better choice. And the chocolate parfait with dwarf orange compote, adorned with fruit slices and garnishes, shows that the restaurant sees itself as a fine dining establishment. Two handfuls of decent wines are also available in what is probably the oldest inn in Graz.