Crispy, smoky, iodized, a breeze from the sea: Mitja Birlo gets the evening off to a brilliant and loud start with a bite of Brittany lobster. Even louder: the "Salüüü!" from the kitchen crew for every new guest who sits down at the counter in "The Counter". Despite all the seriousness, there is no shortage of fun here. The kohlrabi crescent marinated in vinaigrette is nutty and refreshingly sour. With the mushroom bao, the batter stands out on the one hand, and the play with pickled mushrooms on the other. The lye shokupan is addictive after the first bite. The smoky, stony Sancerre from Didier Dagueneau is accompanied by a crunchy ceviche of raw and marinated vegetables with crystal caviar from Kaviari, and the char-based Leche de Tigre with ginger, onions, celery, lime juice and beguiling kaffir lime oil. The hand-dipped scallop from Norway - what a great product! - Birlo serves it with cauliflower puree, kale crunch, red curry paste and a dashi with fermented bell peppers. The balance is just right, the scallop shines. Sommelière Florentina Birlo serves the 2021 Chardonnay Unique from Martin Donatsch with soy-pickled and charcoal-glazed zander with beurre blanc and Tahitian vanilla oil - wow! The dessert highlight: Bühler plums in all their textures and variations. Sorbet, crème from the dried fruit, sauce. Plus salt crumble, barley kojicrème, sorrel, citrus snow. Yes, our last visit proves it: "The Counter" is now playing in Zurich's top league without a doubt.
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