Cooking has been taking place in a former work yard in Liebefeld for five years. The restaurant of the same name is run by chefs Fabienne Lüdi, Michael Früh and Dylan Sanden, who has taken over from Rafael Hänni, who has left the business. We start by breaking bread, a sourdough bread made from three wholemeal flours to be precise, and dip it in thyme butter. We are served a plate full of delicacies: Salad asparagus with rhubarb, smoked carrots, kohlrabi ravioli with fava beans and cream cheese, buttered radishes with their own greens, roasted beetroot with beetroot and melon vinaigrette. A roasted aromatic firework, only the somewhat stubborn goat's cheese could have done with a warning. The vegetarian starter is roasted and sliced fennel with woodruff vinaigrette, fir shoots, roasted Swiss stone pines and wood sorrel. The meat eater gets lamb from Langnau, black lentils from Worb and snow peas from waiter Tobi Kramer's garden. The main course is a duo of Limousin beef, served with jus from the bones, wild garlic capers, asparagus from Thörishaus, melted potatoes and tarragon espuma. The veggie course: Bernese bramata and sautéed turnips, pickled autumn trumpets, parsley puree and chive blossoms. The courses are generous and tasty. The predessert - a blackthorn blossom ice cream with meringue and bee pollen - heightens the anticipation of the sweet finale: strawberry sorbet with elderberry oil, crumble, caramel, yoghurt foam and pickled elderberry. So simple, so sweet, so seasonal.
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