The generational change at "Wullenwever" is taking place almost effortlessly: Roy Petermann, who has shaped the Lübeck restaurant for a quarter of a century, recently handed over the reins to his 26-year-old son Jean-Luc. The young chef, trained in Naurath at "Rüssels Landhaus" and at "Söl'ring Hof" on Sylt, is already making his own mark. His mother Manuela Petermann is responsible for the cheerful service and an extensive wine list with an impressive depth of vintages and a focus on Germany, France and Italy in the patrician house built in 1585. The limoncello salmon marinated on sea buckthorn with Sylt rose already outlines the stylistic guideline of the cuisine: freshness, fruit and acidity. The sea buckthorn cream brings a tart tension into play, the limoncello oil emphasizes the citrus character, trout caviar adds a salty touch - a homage to the North German coast and a surprising interplay of flavours. The tea-smoked quail shows the more playful side of the duo: pumpkin, pickled and as a flan, meets a sweet and sour intermezzo in the date and bacon vinaigrette, while the leg and breast are cooked to perfection. The lightly glazed red mullet fillet on Mediterranean vegetables in a smoky, spicy bouillabaisse stock, accompanied by a subtly spicy rouille sauce, is equally delicate. Dried fennel adds a refined, sweetish aniseed note. The classics also have their place: the à point cooked saddle of venison with young celeriac and porcini mushrooms rests on a concentrated jus flavored with Americana grapes - just one of the many unpretentious yet imaginative touches of this cuisine.
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