A beloved tradition, dill-boiled crayfish, aquavit, and good company are the magic ingredients for a late summer party in Sweden. Falstaff recommends these five restaurants in Stockholm for a fantastic kräftskiva.
A kräftskiva (crayfish party) is a traditional Swedish celebration held in August, when this delicacy is at its best. A lively occasion where friends and family gather to eat crayfish, sing schnapps songs, and enjoy the late summer evenings, tables are often decorated with colorful lanterns, party hats, and paper moons in this beloved local tradition.
Originally, crayfish season always started on August 7, as back in the 19th century, crayfish were so popular a fishing ban was introduced, restricting their harvest from late summer to November 1. The ban was lifted 1994, but most Swedes still uphold tradition and celebrate with crayfish at the beginning of August.
The crayfish are boiled with dill crowns, salt, sugar and beer, and served cold. Bread and cheese (preferably a spiced Swedish cheese) are served as sides, and the drinks include both beer and aquavit. Singing is a key part of any crayfish party, with guests belting out songs between sips. Although a deeply Swedish phenomenon, the tradition has also gained popularity in parts of Finland. The event often marks the end of the Nordic summer and is seen as a fitting celebration before the cold sets in again.
Sturehof, one of the Stockholm’s most traditional and beloved seafood restaurants, kicks off crayfish season every year on August 14 with a large party, leaving the delicacy on the menu well into September. First celebrated in 1995, their event is so popular that, according to restaurant manager Angelica Lindberg, many guests reserve tables up to a year in advance. The crayfish are served with classic accompaniments – and of course, aquavit.
A classic Stockholm eatery known for its authenticity and traditional Swedish dishes. Of course, crayfish are part of their seasonal menu. Many think the restaurant is at its best when the weather allows for outdoor dining – it should therefore come as no surprise that their annual crayfish party is held on their terrace on August 14.
At this atmospheric restaurant overlooking Gamla Stan and the Stockholm inlet, crayfish are served starting August 21. Available for parties of two or more, their offering includes Swedish signal crayfish, Västerbotten cheese tartlet from Northern Sweden, chanterelle toast, and melon dessert. During the evening, Gondolen’s jazz band plays live, and guests will find the restaurant’s own aquavit in their glasses – developed in collaboration with the renowned Stockholms Bränneri and flavored with bird cherry and blackcurrant leaves from the garden at sister restaurant Ulriksdals Värdshus.
This year, Riche – a Stockholm social and cultural hub with a proud history – is hosting its first major crayfish party on August 30. The evening begins with a welcome drink and Skagen canapés (invented by Tore Skogman, the highly esteemed chef and restaurateur who made this restaurant famous) followed by chanterelle toast, a platter of crayfish, Västerbotten cheese pie with bleak roe, spiced cheese, and raspberry pie. Music, singing, and a festive atmosphere are promised. After this, crayfish will continue to be served à la carte for the rest of the season.
Riche
Birger Jarlsgatan 4, Stockholm
riche.se
One of the world’s oldest restaurants, Den Gyldene Freden in Gamla Stan – where the Swedish Academy regularly eats pea soup and countless cultural figures have been regulars – hosts a crayfish party during the last week of August. The three-course menu includes cream-fried chanterelles with croutons and Jerusalem artichoke cream, followed by Swedish signal crayfish boiled in porter beer with cheese and bread, and finishes with a clafoutis made with Swedish berries. Recommended drinks include the house aquavit, Den Gyldene Snapsen (with hints of oak, coriander seeds, citrus peel, and chervil), and Den Gyldene Freden’s Källaröl (cellar lager).
Den Gyldene Freden
Österlånggatan 51, Stockholm
gyldenefreden.se
Bonus Tip:
B.A.R. is a modern restaurant and food market where the line between kitchen and dining room is blurred. Fish and seafood are the house specialties, and in recent years, some of the region’s best crayfish – caught in Lake Hjälmaren – have been served here. A bonus is that the main ingredients can also be purchased to take home. This year, crayfish will be served starting August 8 and for the following three weeks.
More places where you can enjoy a traditional kräftskiva:
• Operakällaren: It's August 22 crayfish party has cultural heritage at its heart, with a touch of decadence.
• Wedholms Fisk sets its long table on August 31.
• And the Grand Hotel Verandan offers a buffet with classic flavors on August 14.
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