Slovenia is currently looking to modernize its traditional, rustic foods, with the links between restaurants and small producers closer than ever before. The restaurant and boutique hotel Milka is spearheading this development with enthusiasm and creativity.
Slovenia may still seem like a hidden gem, but much has changed in recent years – and nowhere else is that more apparent than at the Hotel Milka. Surrounded by the Slovenian Alps and near the crystal-clear turquoise waters of lake Jezero Jasna, the surroundings could not be more beautiful. This makes it the ideal location for a restaurant that uses only locally-sourced ingredients.
Restaurant co-owner and head chef David Žefran is young, yet has already received numerous accolades. With 49 out of a possible 50 Falstaff points and two Michelin stars, this small restaurant, which seats no more than 25 people has become an important destination for foodies despite its remote location.
The boutique hotel and restaurant are in a modern alpine house typical for the area; inside, however, guests can enjoy some of the most progressive hospitality that Slovenia has to offer. The cozy size creates an atmosphere akin to visiting friends – step outside your room and you will be offered a glass of wine or a mocktail, letting you enjoy both the stunning views and local flavors.
Curating a wine list is no small feat: There are 400 (!) wineries in the immediate vicinity and a total of 28,000 throughout Slovenia. Large-scale production is practically non-existent here, and there is great pride in the unique local terroir and produce. At Milka, you will search for Maine lobster, Hokkaido scallops, and Japanese Wagyu in vain – for Žefran, it's all about showcasing the taste of Slovenia.
Žefran planned his concept down to the last detail. "The cheeses from the nearest dairy; it may not be the most recognized, but the flavor profile offered by our soil cannot be found anywhere else. It is our job as chefs to bring out the best in our ingredients," he says modestly.
However, there is nothing modest about his daily work. Slovenian gastronomic history is being written right now, and Žefran is at the forefront. Traditional Slovenian cuisine is simple and rustic, focusing on providing calories rather crafting a culinary identity. Milka, however, updates local tradition with modern methods and techniques, encouraging local farmers to do the same. Spelt grains are polished in the same way as rice in Japan, resulting in pasta to die for. Milka's caviar is sourced from a fish farm just a few kilometers away, and a former chef catches crayfish from local rivers for the restaurant. Just a stone's throw from the restaurant, a goat farm and a beekeeper provide ingredients exactly the way Žefran wants.
Small-scale food production in Slovenia is like a miniature model of the world. Everything you can think of is grown here. The flavors are slightly different to those elsewhere – but that's the whole point. Slovenia tastes like no other country.
Both locals and foodies are following this process with interest. If you are planning to see for yourself, allow for more than just one day and visit several restaurants: Part of the charm of this small country is that you don't need to visit dozens of places to experience its cuisine. Five or six is enough. Three restaurants are almost always mentioned regarding the new direction of Slovenian cuisine: Ana Roš's Hiša Franko, David Žefran's Milka and Luka Košir's Grič.
Even outside Slovenia, Ana Roš is a name that needs no introduction. Her accolades seem endless – most recently, the World Chef Awards ranked her second worldwide, coming behind Rasmus Munk of Denmark and ahead of Dubai's Himanshu Sain. She recently invited Swiss culinary guru Andreas Caminada to her hometown of Kobarid to cook alongside her. His contribution to raising the profile of Slovenian cuisine cannot be understated.
Her flagship, Hiša Franko is now the crown jewel of a restaurant empire, which includes the JAZ by Ana Roš, the bakery Pekarna Ana and the online store, Drinks by Ana Roš. More news is expected soon.
A converted village house on a hill, Grič boasts a walk-through kitchen, with the showroom down in the basement. The glass veranda offers a picture-perfect view of the area – which is particularly special as almost every household in the village grows produce for the restaurant. Head chef Luka Košir is as knowledgeable about agriculture as he is about cooking, and has very specific requirements when it comes to home-grown ingredients. For example, pork is not served at all, as the quality available is unsatisfactory, and the restaurant does not yet raise its own pigs. Instead, Grič offers a wide variety of dishes sourced from its own duck farm.
Traditional Slovenian cuisine served in a traditional country house.
Gostilna Cajnarje
Cajnarje 2, Cerknica, Slovenia
+386 31 277 134
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Traditional Slovenian food in the center of Ljubljana. Only open during the day.
Pri Stričku
Kodrova 8, Ljubljana, Slovenia
+386 1 541 61 71
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David Žefran's favorite restaurant in Ljubljana is known for its exotic cuisine.
Zanoodle
Rimska cesta 21, Ljubljana, Slovenia
+386 70 706 612
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