It says something about the spirit of the times that ambitious chefs aren’t currently tinkering with new fine-dining concepts, but are instead consciously dedicating themselves to simple pub fare. At the formerly smoky corner bar Tresen-Treff, Laurens Friedl and Josha Karlborg, together with host Julia Bentzien, are pursuing this approach. Not ironically, not nostalgically, but with respect for the venue, the regulars, and tradition. The fact that they’ve not only saved the corner pub but also preserved its name, charm, and—above all—its regulars is part of the concept—and one of the reasons why Tresen-Treff is currently considered Berlin’s newest hotspot. It’s a gathering place not only for neighbors and soccer fans, but also for foodies and chefs from the culinary scene. The kitchen reimagines classic Berlin pub dishes with artisanal flair and without pretension: meatballs, Beamtenstippe, Königsberger Klopse, and roulade are taken seriously, not disguised. Price is also a key factor: all dishes are under ten euros—a price point that’s hard to beat for this level of quality right now. The matjes herring salad is served in a classic, pleasantly light style with sour cream instead of mayonnaise. Beets with pear and sunflower seeds add a refreshing touch. The chefs’ skill is particularly evident in the sauces: rich, authentic, and without gimmicks. The Beamtenstippe with mashed potatoes remains a hearty, old-school dish that fills you up, while the Senfeier combines a creamy sauce with equally creamy eggs. The fact that experienced chefs are at work here is evident not so much in flashy presentation as in their confident handling of the ingredients. Contemporary pub cuisine from professional hands.
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