Right on the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux is the quintessential French wine region. On this trip to the legendary left bank around the city of Bordeaux, we discover complex world-class reds, full-bodied whites, and noble, sweet vintages.
With over 100,000 hectares of vineyards, Bordeaux and its many appellations is one of the largest wine-producing regions in the world. It is impossible to fully explore this oenophile's paradise in a single trip. So this time, we'll explore the so-called "left bank " of the Garonne river, to the left of the Gironde and the Atlantic coast.
Downstream all the way to the mouth of the river, you'll find the sweet wine regions of Sauternes and Barsac, the Pessac-Léognan appellation in the south, but also the city of Bordeaux and finally the Médoc, where the famous wine-growing regions of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe stretch out to the north. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates here, while Merlot and Cabernet Franc reign on the "right bank" of the Gironde and the Dordogne river, featuring the well-known regions of Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, Fronsac and the Côtes.
Our starting point is the lively city of Bordeaux, which in recent years has been transformed from an ugly duckling into a real beauty. In days gone by, people tended to steer clear of the old lady, but today, Bordeaux is modern, young and dynamic.
Here, you'll find great food, wine bars, and Michelin-starred restaurants on every corner, and you can stroll along the lovely riverside promenades. A new, modern district has been created around the Cité du Vin, numerous new hotels beckon, and the Les Halles de Bacalan market opposite the wine museum is the latest star attraction and a must-see for every visitor. In the middle of this vibrant metropolis, some world-famous wineries like Château Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are hidden away in the suburbs. Another urban winery just a stone's throw away is Carmes Haut-Brion. And the vines of Château Pape-Clément grow right next to the Rocade urban freeway.
From Bordeaux city, follow the river and the Gironde on the left side to the north and take the famous château road towards Margaux. This southernmost appellation of the Médoc is home to 56 châteaux – including world stars of viticulture like Châteaux Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 1855 and a further 20 classified growers; with 21 in total over a vineyard area of 1500 hectares, it's the largest number of Grands Crus Classés in the Médoc. Architecturally, the châteaux range from medieval forts to neoclassical palaces, and their famous parks and gardens have long been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The red wines of Margaux are famous for their charm, silky tannins and profound finesse.
A few kilometers to the north is Saint-Julien, the smallest appellation with 910 hectares and eleven Grands Crus – including five Superseconds such as Durcu-Beaucaillou, Gruaud-Larose and the three Léovilles (Las Cases, Poyferré and Barton). The reds here are tighter, spicier and more complex than in Margaux, with a number of Merlot vines alongside the dominant Cabernet Sauvignon providing a certain suppleness.
Next stop is the Holy Grail for friends of Cabernet Sauvignon: Some of the world's most famous vineyards are located around the small port town of Pauillac. Pichon-Baron and Pichon-Comtesse form the entrance toward the south along the château road, and if you look to the right towards the Gironde, you can see the tower of Château Latour. The other two Premiers Grands Crus, Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite-Rothschild, are located to the north of town. A total of eighteen classified growers are based in the Cabernet stronghold. The wines here are full-bodied with firm tannins, have great ageing potential and are marked by hints of cassis and tobacco.
On a small hill opposite Lafite-Rothschild, you'll find perhaps the most visually exotic estate in the Médoc, Château Cos d'Estournel, a palace fit for an Indian maharajah. It is one of the most important wine estates in the Saint-Estèphe appellation and an essential stop on any tour. Further north, you'll see the impressive Château Montose on the banks of the Gironde and the classic Calon-Ségur. Their wines show good freshness, dark berry fruit, robust, pithy tannins and a salty minerality. The Pessac-Léognan region extends to the south of the city of Bordeaux. The top winery there is Château Haut-Brion, the only one to be classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1855. There are sixteen wines classified as Crus Classeés de Graves in this area, although a distinction is made between white and red wines. Six estates are classified for both, seven only for their reds and three only for white wine – the only place in the world to do so. In addition to the Haut-Brions, the Domaine de Chevalier, Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Malartic-Lagravière and Haut-Bailly are worthy of attention.
The sweet finale is half an hour's drive further south toward Sauternes. Here, autumn mists ensure the occurrence of noble rot, which enables the production of full-bodied sweet wines from the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon varieties. A total of 27 estates were classified here in 1855; Château d'Yquem is a Premier Cru Supérieur soloist, there are eleven Prémiers Crus and 16 Deuxième Crus found here. The "left bank" has everything to offer: great reds, mineral dry white wines and great sweet wines.
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