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Danyel Couet: All in at Allegrine

Sweden
Gourmet
Bar culture

After decades as one of Sweden’s most diligent chefs, Danyel Couet has chosen to focus entirely on a single establishment. With new energy, a reworked menu, and a food bar at the center, the reborn Bar Allegrine is now Couet's playground, placing him closer to the food and his guests than ever before.

As one of Sweden’s most well-known chefs and restaurateurs, celebrity chef and media personality Danyel Couet has opened and run more pioneering restaurants in Stockholm than most anyone. But today, he has slowed down considerably, settltling into the role of sole owner at Bar Allegrine – the only restaurant he now runs. When Couet opened Allegrine seven years ago, he was always juggling multiple projects and had never focused on just one venue: "I thought that was just who I was. And even though I don’t like saying I’m satisfied – because it sounds like settling for less – I am satisfied with how things are now. I enjoy working alongside others in the kitchen, teaching, and being part of the daily work. I’ve found a role where I’m truly needed."

It's the crowning touch of the transformation of Allegrine, which recently reopened as Bar Allegrine. Couet describes his restaurant as warm, welcoming, and full of energy (Ed: it sounds like a reflection on his own personality). The most striking change is the new food bar in the middle of the dining area, but other elements have also evolved: There's a new interior, new atmosphere, and a new culinary direction with several small dishes instead of a classic menu – a recalibration for Couet, the guests, and the economic climate.

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The wine list has also been updated, with more offerings by the glass in different price ranges. Since both the restaurant and Couet have French roots, the selection leans in that direction, though it also ventures into other regions. Still, Couet emphasizes that neither he nor the restaurant are a Gallic caricature. Instead, he feels connected to the new wave of Paris restaurants, which he sees as just as French as the classics. That’s the kind of cooking he wants to serve – new French cuisine built on classical techniques that have become rarer today. "Since they can’t be allowed to die out, those of us who do know them have a responsibility to pass them on – even if we use them in a modern way," as he puts it.

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The atmosphere can be described as youthful: The music is relatively loud and the food arrives at a fast pace. At the same time, Bar Allegrine draws guests of all ages. The new food bar encourages more interaction between guests, staff, and chefs; smaller parties are often seated at the bar, while larger groups get their own tables, mirroring the varied crowd the restaurant attracts. Groups of friends are common, but the mix is diverse – exactly how Couet wants it, since it foments dynamics and exciting encounters.

 

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As for the fall menu, Couet has something special in store, as always: "Today we tested a skewer of snails, brushed with black garlic and served with a wild mushroom emulsion. It turned out great. I like strong flavors and umami, and with small plates, it’s easier to go all in when the portions are smaller". The menu will also feature plenty of game, provided Couet gets lucky – he only serves what he has hunted himself, whether it be pheasant, venison or rabbit. And for the second year running, there will be a special game night, following last year’s success.

It's just a small part of Couet's overall reorientation. After years as an influential restaurateur, Couet is elated to focus on what really matters to him.  When asked what the best part of running a restaurant is, the answer came quick: "That every day, when you open the door, guests are there who have come to eat your food. It’s like a premiere every night, and you always have to be at your best." And his new concept serves up exactly that enthusiasm, passing it on to patrons:

 It feels like we’ve opened a new restaurant – and I get that familiar dose of excitement, but on home turf."

Pia Bendel
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