Hidden just behind the concrete jungle of Berlin's Alexanderplatz, in a partially rebuilt historical quarter, is what is said to be the oldest inn in the metropolis. The back wall of the listed building opposite the baroque Parochial Church is formed by the remains of Berlin's medieval city wall. There has been a pub on this site since 1621, which even survived the GDR era as an HO restaurant. Today, the Sperling family is the second generation of restaurateurs to run the restaurant, which offers refined, home-style and regional cuisine in an environment largely dominated by fast food outlets. You dine at bare wooden tables, the menu is small but fine, and even the sweet and sour pickled carp served as a starter is a culinary discovery. For the main course, there are old Berlin classics such as mustard party with mashed potatoes, Berlin-style veal liver, cabbage rolls or Königsberger Klopse. All of the best quality. The meatballs were wonderfully fluffy, the caper sauce mild and spicy, and the potato and parsley mash was perfect. What was then served as "warm apple cake with vanilla ice cream" was another surprise. It consisted of caramelized apple pieces baked in puff pastry. Sweet and sinful. The wine list is intelligently compiled with unusual wines from Germany and Austria, although a beer is probably the best accompaniment to the hearty dishes. The service is nimble, friendly and knowledgeable, without the Berlin brashness that sometimes takes some getting used to.
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