In front of the floor-to-ceiling glass front on the ninth floor, a panoramic view of the Alster unfolds just the way you love it: white sailing boats on blue water, framed by the lush green of the trees on the banks. Patrick Weber is now enjoying this postcard motif for the second time in his career - as a workplace. Born in Lower Saxony, he was already at the stove in the Hotel Atlantic before he was most recently responsible for the conceptual direction of the gastronomy in the spectacular bunker at Heiligengeistfeld, which opened last year. Now it's back to the Alster - this time as head chef at the "Heritage" in the Hotel Le Méridien. The 44-year-old has no intention of changing the basic culinary direction. The 800-degree broiler from Southbend and the excellent selection of steaks have long been the hotel's trademark. But Weber wants to raise the bar with home-aged dry-aged beef and creative impulses. His signature is immediately apparent in the Tuna Tataki, which he gives a concentrated portion of umami: sautéed beech mushrooms and a light teriyaki sauce provide depth, while a fine coconut foam and fresh lemongrass add aromatic lightness. The Southbend grill gives the US Greater Omaha Beef flank steak its strong roasted flavors. A classic Béarnaise sauce with a buttery tarragon note brings the dish into perfect balance. The sweet finish is also impressive: a delicate bouquet of strawberries, rhubarb and pistachios, balanced with the fresh acidity of sour cream and an incredibly clear lime jelly. It's just a shame that the service is not very ambitious.
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