The soup - a dream. Asparagus tips float in it, crunchy and slightly bitter. But what makes the wow factor: they are a side dish of a flavor-dense coconut milk soup that tastes only very slightly of coconut, but fresh and lemony like lime and pleasantly spicy with a hint of chili. A moment of surprise that kicks off the twelve-course menu at "Criss Studio". And more will follow. Surprising, because no menu card reveals what is about to be served. The other courses also reveal a fusion of two worlds that could hardly be more different: Mateusz A Zurek from Poland and Jahmarley Grant with Jamaican roots unite the culinary identities of their home countries in unexpected harmony. Four cold starters follow the soup. For example, a slightly sweet waffle roll filled with cream and topped with starfish arms. Or a mildly smoked tartare of dry-aged duck breast with a whipped, spicy duck egg. Or a donut topped with a blue quail egg and caviar. Zurek and Grant give their guests free rein to guess their creations - only after the meal is it revealed exactly what was served. With the first main course, a kind of congee with fresh and dried peas in a beef broth flavored with rose petals and mint, this is still relatively easy. The confusion grows with the second course: there is a mini lobster on the plate - pure decoration. The raw Norway lobster can still be identified. But the white-pink something under the multi-layered sauce remains a mystery. The solution: a specially prepared piece of rabbit.
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