After the Champagne aperitif on the terrace, we head into "1913", the gourmet restaurant of the Villars Palace Hotel. Guests can also enjoy the breathtaking view of the Alps from here, as well as the view of the largely open kitchen. The unspectacular snacks at the start give no hint of the fine dining that Chef Christian Bertogna will be serving afterwards. Sommelier Vasili Abodzich Karalko serves Bernard Cavé's Coteau de Verschiez 2023, a surprisingly expressive Chasselas, and immediately explains why it is so expressive even at such a young age. It is accompanied by a pleasantly tempered carpaccio from the Gambero Rosso from Sicily with a citrus and fir marinade. The dill sorbet is refreshing. For the main course, the chef surprisingly recommends his risotto: Aquarello rice cooked in tomato water, straciatella, basil. Mamma mia! Such a perfect risotto is rarely served in Switzerland. It has a nice bite to it, is tender, with a gentle interplay of flavours and fruity acidity from the tomato water. Accompanied by a glass of Pinot Noir Les Cailloutis 2021 from the Domaine des Landions in Neuchâtel: elegant, a little wild, great. Finally, Bertogna marries green apple with celery and iced basil. That also works. The cuisine is in keeping with the tone of the hotel: very high quality, but always relaxed, never over the top. Tip for gourmets: stay overnight and enjoy the spectacular breakfast buffet the next morning, where the breadth and quality of the selection is astounding.