The country trip to Markt Indersdorf leads through the expected Upper Bavarian idyll: fields, cows, tractors, churches. The contrast to Sabrina Fenzl's "Mind" is all the more stark. Anyone entering the restaurant in Dachauer Straße, a completely renovated former butcher's shop, is immersed in a world of selected ingredients, colors and charms. The rear dining room is painted black. There are beats for your ears, illuminated garlands and rocking chairs. Colorful jungle paintings adorn one wall. Where was Bavaria again? Certainly not in here - apart from the regional venison, which Fenzl serves as an atypical tartare with coffee vinaigrette and bay leaf sorbet. The chef celebrates the pure freedom of creative cooking, creates unconventional vegetable courses such as beet in colorful textures with sour cream and sauerkraut foam and serves wonderful feel-good dishes such as the onsen egg with pistachio, Jerusalem artichoke and Beller tuber. The crispy sourdough pastry with olive oil butter is also superb. Fenzl's menu unfolds with relish as you lean back in your chair and relax. Then you suddenly sit up at attention as the Mieral chicken is served in two courses, including a dry-aged breast of the finest texture. Tart grilled notes are offset by the rustic fruit of quince and bean puree. The jus: so polished that it is gratefully dipped into with a piece of bread. The dish is nothing less than the art of great precision, proving that the chef wants more: The chef still wants more. "Quiet" sounds like a dirty word to Fenzl anyway. In addition to the restaurant, she took over her parents' forestry business and looks after 180 trees on the side.
Route
