Is the gastronomy sector about to enter a new era? In any case, many places are turning to simplicity, including the "Hotel Auerhahn" at Schluchsee, which opened in spring. In the fine dining restaurant of the same name, there is a decorative tiled stove and wooden paneling elements, but you will look in vain for Bollenhut kitsch and carved figurines. Lounge music echoes through the rooms. Everything is airy, minimalist and almost looks a little sparse with the bare wooden tables, but the young service and kitchen team led by owner Marius Tröndle and head chef Yann Bosshammer counteract this with gastronomic creativity. A 2024 Rosé-Spatburgunder from Hans Wirsching splashes into the glass with a prawn tartare with celery and sea buckthorn vinaigrette. A 2022 Riesling "Eitelsbacher Alte Reben" from Kartäuserhof is served with braised kohlrabi with poppy seeds, mandarin vinaigrette and gel. Head chef Bosshammer knows exactly what he and his team can put on the plate with confidence and, unlike many others at the start of their careers, does not overdo it. Sommelier David Löffler's wine list is still being developed, but already reveals a focus on Germany, Austria and France. An Italian (2021, Tenuta Luce, Lucente) brings a little too much body to the main course: a veal boiled and grilled at a low temperature, with pea puree, crunchy sugar snap peas, tender herb knöpfle, all surrounded by a lot of cream sauce ... If the Black Foresters don't bite at the reduced flair of the "Auerhahn", they are guaranteed to go into the net.
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