This year, Falstaff once again honored culinary excellence in Austria, rewarding the cream of the crop in all nine federal states.
Steirereck, 1030
The perfect stop before or after attending a concert, Steirereck has a lot in common with an orchestra: In both, perfect conducting and several soloists ensure that every composition is perfect. At Steirereck, however, there are two conductors, as chefs Heinz Reitbauer and Michael Bauböck now have an equal influence. Their legendary maître du pain Andi, sommelier René Antrag and, of course, the incomparable Birgit Reitbauer as head of service act as "vocalists".
The fact that a course that is usually considered routine, such as the cheese, becomes an act that is often filmed on cell phones is just further confirmation of the Steirereck's artistry. The cheese trolley and the detailed explanation of the fragrant treasures that come with it are the crowning finale of a thoroughly rehearsed service. The fact that they manage this even at lunchtime shows their work ethic. And in addition to outstanding cuisine, this – perhaps more than ever – is worthy of applause. Da capo!
Amador, 1190
What defines one of the best restaurants in the country? At Amador, you'll know after a few minutes. That's how long it takes their eight chefs to finalize the amuse-bouches that virtuoso Juan Amador serves as appetizers. Over and over again, they incorporate his classics – the "Laubfrosch", for instance, or the "Brick in the Wall", which currently utilizes saffron ice cream which stays creamy beyond conventional melting points. They also like to toy with the beurre blanc (using parsley for flavoring) or textures. Meanwhile, more and more interpretations of Viennese classics can be found on the menu. Amador's deconstructed apple strudel has been around for a while, but the "Wiener Tafelspitz 2.0" proves that Amador has long seen himself as an Austrian chef. Even the biggest doubter will be silenced when a piece of sweetbread appears under his grass-green signature dish, uniting world cuisine and Vienna for good.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN VIENNA
Landhaus Bacher, Mautern an der Donau
Welcome to the club! Thomas Dorfer's latest rating by the Falstaff community honors one of Austria's true culinary visionaries. His cuisine has brought Japanese zest and South American spices to the traditional tavern, alongside an ambience characterized by energetic freshness. The remodeling of the Landhaus by architect Daniel Büchel has created a stage worthy of creations such as Dorfer's Raviolo. The new lighting acts like a spotlight, highlighting the Dorfers' achievements (wife Susanne works diligently in service) further. But Thomas Dorfer has not only made a name for himself in traditional local cuisine, which made his mother-in-law Lisl Wagner-Bacher famous throughout the region, but also in vegetarian dishes. It is only logical that artistic aspects have now been added to his arsenal. And the fact that some of his creations are as delicate as the "webs" by artist Nikolaus Gohm is more than fitting. And more than worthy of 100 points!
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN LOWER AUSTRIA
Taubenkobel, Schützen
If regional cuisine is all the rage everywhere, can guests really expect to still be surprised? At the "Taubenkobel", this question does not arise. Their theme of "Cuisine of the Former Crown Lands" sets a clear framework. That's why "Kukuruz" (corn) features on Alain Weissgerber's menu. This may be dismissed as a detail, but this is precisely how the Alsatian chef's art reveals itself. When in doubt, an ultra-local ingredient is preferred: For example, mushrooms from the Leithaberg are used in the consommé. The fact that archaic charcoal stoves are utilized is no contradiction. On the contrary: Weissgerber's summer peppers would have entertained ancient Hungarian shepherds. His desserts, which benefit from the fine (French) combination of fruit with herbs or spices, are always in a league of their own. Peach with Seewinkel ginger would be one example, and this principle shines through even more in the lemon meringue with basil blossoms. It is a legacy of the seasonality that Weissgerber's predecessor, Walter Eselböck, perfected, placing the bounty of Pannonia on the plate. And thanks to Alain's mastery, it still shines today!
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN BURGENLAND
Die Weinbank, Ehrenhausen
Now in its eleventh year, the culinary partnership of Gerhard Fuchs and "Zachinator" Christian Zach is showing no signs of fatigue, taking the top spot in Styria once more. The Falstaff community continues to be impressed by their mixture of down-to-earth charm – especially on social media – and brilliant technique. While modestly titled as a "Sunday roast", what Fuchs creates with locally sourced pork is special, and emblematic for top-tier regional cuisine. Often emulated as regionality is all the rage, Die Weinbank has maintained their edge over the years. That's even more obvious in their wine list: Their depth of vintage and scrupulous willingness to experiment is further topped with their own bottlings – "Zachinator"-style. After all, the singular experiences created in Ehrenhausen always come in twos.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN STYRIA
Restaurant Hubert Wallner, Dellach
How much Hubert Wallner has become the torchbearer of Carinthian cuisine can be seen in many ways. Consistently being voted best in the state by the Falstaff community is one of them. His "reach", which can be seen on the license plates in front of his imposing restaurant every summer would be another. His popularity stems from the creativity and appeal of his cuisine and his commitment to down-to-earth culinary concepts. It's seen in his "Young Bubbles" menus, which are deliberately priced attractively to welcome gourmet novices under the age of 25. By doing so, the best chef in Carinthia sets an example, making a statement against the oft-repeated allegations of "daylight robbery" heard in gourmet circles. This commitment to good taste both on and off the plate is more than just empty words – it's seen in his bistro concept and gains Wallner a lot of sympathy. And this in turn attracts many a friend of no-nonsense dining to Dellach – alongside his divine Drau crayfish or loup de mer.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN CARINTHIA
Bootshaus, Traunkirchen
You can literally hear the fish jumping out of the water when you sit on the Bootshaus terrace on a nice evening. Lukas Nagl has always seen his restaurant's location on the lake as a mission: His commitment to making the unique terroir of the deep, clear Traunsee the focal point of his cuisine for a dozen years is exemplery in Europe, if not the world. Two fishermen work full-time for the boathouse on the lake, and their catch is fully processed in the restaurant – even offcuts and bycatch are used for the superb fish sauces they prepare. The cooking style is that of a truly great chef: a few select elements on the plate, a full focus on rare ingredients prepared to enhance taste and consistency. There is no room for frippery and embellishment here. This also means that Nagl's Bootshaus – unlike most fine dining restaurants – does not use sturgeon caviar from questionable sources as decoration. Despite this lack of bling, you won't get a table here without a reservation.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN UPPER AUSTRIA
Ikarus, Salzburg
How will it turn out? The anticipation regarding the extensive remodeling that Ikarus is going through is reaching a fever pitch. Due to be completed at the start of the summer season, their temporary pop-up in Wolfschwang at least offers a clue: Ikarus will continue its path of culinary excellence. The fact that Witzigmann's concept of inviting guest chefs every month which Martin Klein orchestrates so brilliantly with his team has been so successful is a stroke of luck. Let's be clear: the role this plays in culinary education cannot be overestimated. When Soenil Bahadoer 's unique use of spices is transplanted from De Lindehof to Ikarus, Austria's gourmets can count themselves lucky. This kind of permanent training by the best kitchens on the planet creates a wealth of experience that you can taste even when the guest chefs are on break. Then Klein's team shows off its own mastery, reaching a standard similar to Ikarus' interior: "Mindblowing! "
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN SALZBURG
Stüva, Ischgl
For Benjamin Parth, the meagre alpine larder was never enough. His formative years in France or working under chefs who were socialized there taught him two things: Firstly, Always search for the best ingredients, from the first blob of butter to the final cheese course, which was refined by Bernard Antony. Secondly: never forget classic sauces! A dish like "Lobster - Yuzu - Granny Smith" thus personifies Parth in all his understanding. However, it's important to add that the Stüva is not about one-upsmanship like other alpine restaurants. When Wagyu or goose liver are on the menu, they always contribute to the whole – and not just to the Instagram account of the person ordering. In between, Parth's favorites are allowed to shine: particularly seafood, from oysters (his mussel tartare is magnificent) to thornback rays. The puristic presentation also shows the kitchen's self-confidence. And rightly so!
Griggeler Stuba, Lech
Another strong performance from Sebastian Jakob! In other words: the Griggeler Stuba is back on top. Which sounds a little strange considering its altitude (1700 meters) up in Oberlech. But as in the days of Thorsten Probost, the restaurant has once again risen (ex aequo) to first place in the hearts of the Falstaff community. One reason is their unbeatable selection of wines in their show cellar: This makes it a favorite among Arlberg gourmets, while also setting the mood for the menu. Above all, however, it entices with the extremely refined cuisine that Jakob has introduced. The significant Southeast Asian influence that runs through the menu accentuates the fine ingredients from near (game from Arlberg) and far (Balfegó tuna). The Westphalian-born chef calls this "Alpine-Asian cuisine" – as seen in his salmon trout with carrots Som Tam Thai. It is therefore only logical that the large menu has been dubbed the "Griggeler Experience": The finest flavors await at the Lucian family's legendary ski hotel!
Rote Wand, Lech
Continuity and change are the two polar opposites in play at the Rote Wand's Chef's Table, supported by Joschi Walch as enabler and Julian Stieger as the creator. When the young star took over as head chef from Max Natmessnig, he did so as the latter's former sous chef. But the new Kitchen Lab, as known from star chefs like Heston Blumenthal or Ferran Adrià, brings a new dimension to the Arlberg. As cosmopolitan as this cuisine is, it surprises with the exoticism of the familiar - for example with meadowsweet as an ingredient. The fact that such culinary high-wire acts are possible alongside the tried and tested fondues that continue to be offered, speaks volumes.
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