The "Chifa Izakaya" is like a cultural triad. The cuisine is a comfortable but never boring crossover between Peru, China and Japan. The basis is Peruvian cuisine, which, God knows, is more than just ceviche. Although the restaurant likes to make use of a cliché: the llama is present everywhere - in the logo, on the table, even as a bill bearer. In Peru, "Chifa" stands for the fusion cuisine of the immigrant Cantonese, while "Izakaya" is the Japanese counterpart to the cozy drinking and eating establishment. Two chefs are responsible for the fusion, who know exactly how to respect traditions and yet reinterpret them in a cheeky new way: Paulo Timoteo, previously at DiverXO in Madrid, and Dan Shu, Zurich's master of urban umami. In the modern, dimly lit restaurant with its open kitchen, the two virtuosos serve a menu based on the sharing concept of sea, land and garden. The Seafood Fried Rice immediately shows why it is a bestseller: onsen egg, saffron espuma and a bed of rice that has character. The brioche served warm is a small, buttery monster - the rocoto sauce has enough fire to remind you that you shouldn't put water far away. Sometimes it gets a bit messy, at the latest with the garlic pasta, but if you don't feel a finger-licking instinct after a plate, you're in the wrong place anyway. The big winner of the evening was the Tantan "Bolognese", a beef ragout with five spices, sesame and onsen egg, served with bread for dipping. And because an izakaya without drinks would only be half the truth, there is a small, fine cocktail menu with - how could it be otherwise - different pisco sour variations. Salud!
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